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THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 



A BOOK OF TRAVEL, HISTORY, INFORMATION 
AND ENTERTAINMENT. 



m. r>. s 



Rt. Rev. Mc BJ SALTER, E>.E>. 9 



ONE OF THE 



Bishops of the A. M. E. Church, 



Illustrated by special selected beautiful half-tone 
engravings. 



PHILADELPHIA: 

A. M. E. PUBLISHING HOUSE, 

63I PINE STREET. 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Received 

JUL. 16 1902 

H)HT ENTRY 
CXXo! No. 
COPY B. 



Entered according to Act of Congress] ;in]|the]Iy ear 1902, by 
Bishop M.B. Salter in the office of the Librarian'of Congress at 

Washington, D. C. 



CONTENTS. 



Introduction, — Rev. M. W. Thornton, D. D. n 

Preface, — Author. . ... . 7 

A Voyage on the Deep. . . . 17 

Edward's Kingdom, — London, England. . 25 

Leopold's Kingdom, — Belgium. . . 33 

Wilhelmina's Kingdom, — Holland. . . 37 

William's Kingdom, — Germany. . . 40 

Zemp's Kingdom, — Switzerland. ... 43 

Victor Emanuel's Kingdom, — Italy. . 51 

Rome, — The Vatican — Home of the Caesars. 62 

Loubet's Kingdom, — France. ... 66 

Back in London, — Ecumenical Conference. 84 

A Storm at Sea, — Old Ocean. . . . 101 

Elements of Pulpit Effectiveness. . 111 

The Universality of the Christian Church. 115 

Immutability of God's Promises . . 124 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



City Roads Chapel. 

Umbria. .... 

Bishop Salter. 

St. Ermine. 

A Party of Friends. 

Mrs. Priscilla Salter. 

Delegates and Wesley's Tomb. 

Interior Wesley Chapel. 

Campania. 



5 

9 

15 

26 

41 
53 
7J 
89 

137 




CITY ROADS CHAPEL, 
London, England, where Ecumenical Conference was held, 



TO 

MY BELOVED WIFE, PRISC1LLA SALTER, 

MY VENERABLE COLLEAGUES, 

AND 

MINISTERS OF THE A. M. E. CHURCH, 

THIS 

LITTLE VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY 

INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR. 



PREFACE. 

In presenting this little volume to my friends, I 
have but one object, I lay no claims to the title of 
an Author ; I had occasion to pay a visit to foreign 
lands, principally Europe. 

I saw and noted what I saw, the Old Woman 
(Mrs. Priscilla Salters, my beloved wife and com- 
panion, will be referred to throughout this work 
under this humorous nom-de-plume)was my com- 
panion, she saw with me, what we both saw is too 
good to die untold. 

She saw most everything that I saw, therefore 
in my private moments of reflection I perchance 
receive the inspiration to re-relate my seeings, of 
course the story islold to her, she doesn't care to 
listen to repetitions, so I have decided to write and 
tell it all to you ; this and only this is my object. 

I trust it shall be received for what it's worth, 
in the hope that it will impart to you much informa- 
tion and prove most interesting. 

I am much indebted to Rev. Montrose W. Thorn- 
ton for his contribution and the Old Woman, my 
faithful and beloved wife, for invaluable assistance 
rendered me in note taking. 

I kept a minute daily diary, during my stay 
abroad, little escaped my attention, from the same 
I have prepared and given you my experience in 
traveling through the Seven Kingdoms. 

AUTHOR. 



INTRODUCTION. 



As a race we are just entering the experimental 
epoch of our development in book making. 

The greater part of our energy to the present, 
has been expended along other lines in a field most 
varied. 

A great transformation has taken place since the 
days of Emancipation. 

The bondsman within thirty-seven years has be- 
come the citizen ; — poverty, wealth ; — ignorance, 
intelligence. 

The world of literature is extending a listening 
ear to our musings ; she has received with open 
arms our Dunbar, Tanner, Scarborough, Dubois, 
Williams and others. 

This list is no less complete for want of talent 
and accomplishments in scores of other bright 
minds to be found in the ranks of the race ; un- 
recognized merit, poisoned with the arrow of pre- 
judice, is the only barrier that has and now stands 
in the way of many others. 

Aside from this source of limited recognition, a 
certain variety of the race culture in these latter 
years, have been keeping the press humming and 
the library shelves replete with productions from 
their pens that are worthy of more than passing 
mention. 

Religious subjects, on Bible and Church topics, 
have called forth a number of commendable vol- 
umes by Negro authors. 



Racial questions, the one he was the nearest ac- 
quainted with, has probably had the lead of any of 
the other writings. 

Scientific problems, have occupied his thoughts 
to some extent, while he has proven himself moie 
than a novice in his fictional turn of mind. 

But few have given their attention to the life of 
travel ; this may be accounted for in part, as a lack 
of opportunity for observation and the experience 
by which such themes are inspired. Dr. D. F. 
Seaton, some years ago, paid a visit to the Holy 
lands. He returned and wrote a book on his 
travels. 

From this example we can easily draw the con- 
clusion that the Negro is not the singular along this 
line of thought ; but on the other hand, he is as re- 
sourceful in this field as any other when brought 
in contact with its experience. 

It has been vaunted by some, that the delegates 
sent to the Ecumenical Conference were useless and 
no good would result from it, the cost was too 
great. 

Not considering the standing that such represen- 
tation purchased the church in the eyes of her sis- 
ter bodies, if not the world, or the priceless experi- 
ence obtained, that is to be scattered throughout 
our ranks by these most worthy gentlemen, who 
have returned to our midst and cannot help impart 
their valuable stores. 

In my judgment one effort alone, will more than 
repay the church for its expenditure. 

Bishops Derrick, Gaines, Lee and Smith are 
already imparting most valuable lessons from the 
lecture platform, treating of their trip abroad, 



Prof. Kealing is furnishing most valuable material 
through the pages of the Review ; while it was left 
to Bishop Moses Buckingham Salters, D. D., the 
author of this volume to tabulate in book form the 
first history of the kind to be given to the race on 
Foreign travel, especially as connected with a mis- 
sion on behalf of the great church of Allen. 

We have read the manuscript on the "Seven 
Kingdoms," with much delight, interest and pleas- 
ure. 

The subject is suggestive of its contents, a travel 
through seven Kingdoms, and with the descriptive 
of the Author, is fascinating. 

His style is ornate, but plain ; the language is 
simple, yet richly embellished with the queen's best 
diction. 

Aside from travel, you are introduced by careful 
note data and such as we have not seen in print 
elsewhere on the subject, to a history of the pro- 
ceedings of the Ecumenical conference, that im- 
presses one with the feeling of their actual presence 
at this body, this narrative alone is fully worth the 
effort of the Author. 

The two voyages upon the ocean as given in the 
first and last chapters, are illustrations of sea travel 
that but few writers could equal. One has to do 
with the fancy and play upon the imagination, while 
the other plunges you into the real of life and its 
pitches of terror. 

There are other striking and entertaining features 
in this worthy production, not omitting the humor- 
ous, that we have not the space to mention. 

In brief, while laying no claims to the title of an 
Author and of this we are modestlv reminded in 



the Preface : we are quite sure that the good Bishop 
has more than sustained his reputation to such and 
has produced a work that is meritorious and com- 
mendable in the highest sense. 

Its worth will prove a lasting monument to the 
name of its Author and as years roll on, will oc- 
cupy a place of greatest value in the historical 
archives of the Church. 

The book should find a conspicuous place on 
every shelf, in every home. I am 

Yours alwavs, 

M. W. THORNTON, 
Presiding Elder Harrisburg District. 
Philadelphia, Pa., 2-1-02. 




BISHOP SALTER, D.D. 



THE SEVEN KINGDOMS, 



CHAPTER I. 

A Voyage on the Deep. 

One of the most distinguished and renowned 
religious gatherings of its kind in the world is 
the Ecumenical Conference, a body constituting a 
pro rata representation of the various branches of 
the great church of Methodists existing through- 
out the world. This illustrious body meets but 
once in every ten years, but few are privileged 
with the honor of membership more than once in a 
lifetime. He who survives the pressure of time 
and retains the activity of body and mind, to say 
the least the popularity requisite for such con- 
tinued distinction is most favored. 

Eighteen delegates was the allotment to the 
African M. E. Church, which ranked fourth ac- 
cording to its numerical strength. Of this num- 
ber two were laymen, eight were ministerial, while 
eight were Bishops. 

In the latter class, it was my happy privilege 
to be one of the more fortunate to be selected. The 
generosity of the church was manifest to the ex- 
tent of contributing the sum of four hundred 
dollars, as an expense fund for each of its dele- 
gates. This was not requisite for every particular, 



is THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

yet it went a long way in the assistance of those 
whom she had chosen to do her honor in the way 
-of representation. 

Realizing that such a trip held forth opportun- 
ities that were seldom to be enjoyed in the average 
•conditioned life and considering well the untold 
pleasure to be obtained from this rare treat by the 
association of the beloved companion of my 
bosom, who in happiness and sorrow, so willingly, 
Tiad shared the course of my past life ; decided that 
by what ever sacrifice necessary, a way should be 
provided for her to share a part of this luxury that 
was simply to be obtained for the buying. 

She was consulted and to be sure, most de- 
lighted with the idea, and with the philosophy of 
the average of her sex, proved most helpful in the 
devising of ways and means by which my dearest 
hopes could be realized. 

On the 17th of July, 1901, at 4.45 p. m. T in a 
comfortable Pullman sleeper, as husband and 
wife, friends and companions, found us bidding 
farewell to long known friends ; a timely adieu to 
the fond city, our home, Charleston, S. C, in 
whose bays there once belched forth the resonant 
guns of old Fort Sumter, which declared to the 
world that four million bondsmen would soon be 
slaves no more. With this consciousness of our 
departure, we soon adjusted ourselves to the fact 
that at last our prayers had been answered, our 
mutual desires were to be gratified, while not in 
fiction, history or the fortune of others, we our- 



A VOYAGE ON THE DEEP. 19 

selves not only would enjoy the privilege, but now 
could be looked upon as two real, live tourists. 

We proceeded on our journey without a chal- 
lenge until we reached the blood-stained hamlet, 
Lake City; here a hot box on one of the coaches 
demanded attention and our minds were again 
pained with the remembrance of that awful out- 
rage which has above all others disgraced the 
name of our fair state, in that poor Baker, who in 
the exercise of his constitutional rights with the 
members of his family were so brutally murdered. 
What a relief when our mighty steed of steam 
removed us from the gaze of the land marks of 
this dreadful scene. 

We reached New York, the great Appian way 
to the famous lands across the briny deep, about 
1.30 on the 1 8th, and were shortly most com- 
fortably situated in apartments at the United 
States hotel. Ere we bid our final farewell to the 
States of pleasant memory, we called at the Bible 
house, paid our respects to Dr. H. B. Parks the 
distinguished secretary of our Missionary De- 
partment, worshiped on the Lord's day at 
historic Bethel, enjoyed the exercises al- 
ways so striking and wholesome to the 
traveler on Broadway and in company 
with parting friends Mrs. Sterrett, Mrs. Beckett 
and daughters, at 8.30 on the 20th, we went 
aboard the majestic Umbria in company with 
Bishops Evans Tyree, Benjamin F. Lee, Revs. 
Albert Johnson, John W. Beckett, Phil. H. Hub- 



20 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

bard, John Hurst, R. C. Ransom and Prof. H. T. 
Kealing. Indescribable was the impression made 
on one as the bell of warning reminded all that 
we were now severing for a time all connection 
with the land and its teeming millions and were 
speedily launching out into the destiny of the 
mighty sea, for days to be tossed and rocked by 
her uncontrollable waves. 

All was now attention and sadness in the face 
of contemplated happiness as - our fearless craft 
pushed out into the great channel with her pre- 
cious cargo of some seven hundred or more pre- 
cious human lives ; with a firm and steady pres- 
sure of her confidential stroke, the panorama of 
the Republic began to move and unfurl both the 
old and new. 

The Goddess of Liberty, serene and unruffled 
by the wear of years with her beacon light point- 
ing heavenward loomed upon our vision, while 
with her silent expression one could not help but 
breathe a prayer to the great God whose sculp- 
tured sentinel she represented. 

Through the beautiful harbor of New York, 
thence the famous Sandy Hook, fraught with so 
many dangers; we * were, soon ushered into the 
bosom of the great father of waters, the majestic 
Atlantic, whose strong arms most cordially ex- 
tended encompassed us in its shaky embrace. 

The 20th of July was a beautiful day, we might 
say an ideal one for the tourist, the sun mockingly 
shined upon our cheerfulness so generally enjoyed 



A VOYAGE ON THE DEEP. 2L 

by all, not for a moment betraying the fearful 
elements of tempest, cloud and storm that awaited 
us, and which in terrible fury was soon to break 
forth upon our helplessness ere we reached out- 
native shores again. All were on deck, especially 
the amateur voyager, wrapped in shawls and over- 
coats christened for the winter's breeze ; but which 
we found in this unsettled part of the world's en- 
vironments on a torrid July day, as comfortable 
and desirable as we had found it in the realms of 
old crimps habitations. Breakfast, luncheon, din- 
ner and refreshments were regularly served, 
which up to the present were most heartly im- 
bibed by all. Drs. Hubbard and Ransom of our 
party were not so well at this time and gave us 
some anxiety. Bishop Lee did not look the better, 
although he' disclaimed any illness, undoubtedly 
Mrs. Salters was the most invulnerable sailor up 
to the present. All seemed greatly amazed by the 
wonders of old ocean, with her heaving billows, 
dancing sprays, lashing music and endless chase, 
as one wave after another pursued its silver capped 
runner in the distance, but too shortly to be re- 
placed by another, more maddened in its intensity 
of brizzling foam in the wake of its rival. 

Me thought that from study and research that 
great was our feeble conception of the Omni- 
potence of God ; but to rightly see the "King in 
His power," one must take a peep at old ocean 
and her mighty and restless billows. More strik- 
inglv then will the poet's muse be understood by 



22 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

his fellow man that our "God is all mysterious 
and is incapable of being found out, truly He 
plants His footsteps in the sea and rides upon the 
storms." 

Aside from this matchless aspect of nature's 
powerful wonders, an endless chain of other beau- 
tiful and enthralling features of the briny seas 
unfurls themselves to one's gaze. Who can right- 
ly describe the beauty of the flying fish who in- 
habit this channel of the deep, as skipping, swim- 
ming, rising and diving, an emblazoned diamond 
in the sun's rays, its wings uplifted as streaked 
with gold and bespangled with pearls; or the 
school of whales, greatest monsters of the deep, 
who in timely rotation sends forth their fountain- 
like streak set so lovely in the colors of the rain- 
bow. This is but a faint and feebly expressed 
impression that comes to the mind of one chained 
to the sovereignty of God and which in glorious 
majesty overwhelms him in a cruise on the crest 
of one of nature's mightiest seas. 

Sometimes a distant sail, gliding along the 
edge of the ocean, would be another theme of idle 
speculation. How interesting this fragment of a 
world, hastening to rejoin the great mass of ex- 
istence. What a glorious monument of human 
invention, that has thus triumphed over wind and 
wave, has brought the ends of the world into com- 
munion, has established an interchange of bless- 
ings, pouring into the sterile regions of the north 
all the luxuries of the south, has diffused the light 



A VOYAGE ON THE DEEP. 23 

of knowledge, and the charities of cultivated life, 
and has thus brought together these scattered 
portions of the human race, between which nature 
seemed to have thrown an insurmountable bar- 
rier. 

I might fill a volume with the reveries of a sea 
voyage ; for with me it is almost a continual re- 
verie — but it is time to take you ashore. 

It was a fine sunny morning when the thrilling 
cry of "land" was given from the mast head. 
None but those who have experienced it can form 
an idea of the delicious throng of sensations 
which rush into an American's bosom when he 
first conies in sight of Europe. There is a vol- 
ume of associations with the very name. It is 
the land of promise, teeming with everything of 
which his childhood has heard, or on which his 
studious years have pondered. 

From that time, until the moment of arrival, 
it was all feverish excitement. The ships of war, 
that prowled like guardian giants along the coast ; 
the head lands of Ireland, stretching out into the 
channel ; the Welsh mountains towering into the 
clouds, all were objects of intense interest. As 
we sailed up the Mercy, my eye dwelt with delight 
on neat cottages, with their trim shrubberies and 
green grass-plots. We beheld the mouldering 
ruins of abbeys overrun with ivy, and the taper 
spire of village church rising from the brow of 
neighboring liill~all were characteristic of Eng- 
land. 



24 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

The tide and wind were so favorable, that the 
ship was enabled to come at once to the pier. It 
was thronged with people; some idle lookers-on, 
others eager expectants of friends or relations. I 
could distinguish the merchant to whom the ship 
was consigned. I knew him by his calculating 
brow and restless air. 

There were repeated cheerings and salutations 
interchanged between the shore and the ship, as 
friends happened to recognize each other. All 
was now hurry and bustle. The meetings of ac- 
quaintances — the greetings of friends — the con- 
sultations of men of business. We alone were 
silent and idle. We had no friends to meet us, 
no cheering to receive. We stepped upon the land 
of the proud Anglo-Saxon and entered the realm 
of his Majesty Edward, the first Kingdom of our 
tour. 



CHAPTER II. 

King Edward' s Kingdom. 

Liverpool is the second largest city of England 
in size and commercial importance. Here we 
landed, underwent the inspection of the custom 
officials, arranged our baggage in the midst of 
much confusion, boarded a train, called a carriage 
which holds about six people, and after a two- 
hundred miles' ride, more tiring than our trip 
across the ocean, we arrived safely at the first 
principal place of our destination, the world- 
famed city of London. 

This renowned city is the capital of the king- 
dom, most beautifully situated on both sides of the 
Thames river. It is the largest and richest city 
in the world, its population averages about five 
millions. Tts area is 118 square miles, and it con- 
tains many celebrated buildings. 

Our baggage again looked after, in company 
with the Old Woman, who from now on was to 
be my sole companion, we entered a cab which 
was capable of holding not more than two people, 
and hastened off to the St. Ermines hotel. I have 
seen and been the guest on the other side of the 
water in some fine and magnificent establish- 
ments, but St. Ermines far surpasses any appoint- 
ment of the kind my eyes ever beheld or dream's 
fancy ever imagined. Indeed, this tavern for the 



KING EDWARD'S KINGDOM. 27 

public nomad is the superb of treasure, art, archi- 
tecture and florals that money has ever amassed. 
No wonder my sense of appreciation was shocked 
beyond the power of control, and although much 
fatigued, so stunned, that my manliness was about 
to fail me in the assuming of that which I had 
money to buy — to tell the truth, so discounten- 
anced was I, that not for the Old Woman, who 
demanded that I recatch my breath and proceed 
to register, I am honest to say, that I should have 
beat a hasty retreat and found more humble 
quarters whose simplicity would better have fitted 
my humble feelings and enabled me a greater 
lease of time for recuperation. But so much for 
the Old Woman whom I had brought along. 
With her unruffled complacency undaunted and 
the gaze of that spirit which without further 
mincing of words, ordered me to go on, I at last 
mustered the courage and performed the ameni- 
ties that enrolled me as a guest of this treasured 
Salon, considered by ;me to be better suited for 
royalty, if not for the gods. 

Having made my first bow to these delicacies, 
I was contented to be left to the reflections of 
more comely circumstances at least, when to my 
surprise I was confronted by a most lordly sub- 
ject, as he looked to me, who in manners of grace- 
fulness was precision itself and who demanded 
my satchel, farther ordering me and the Old 
Woman to follow him. Surely, thought I, that 
this was too much ; to swallow so much grandeur 



28 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

and now thus to be so outrageously imposed upon 
by the honor, probably from a Prince from the. 
court, at least a most lorded gentleman. But after 
arriving to my room, I afterwards learned that 
this poor creature was most insignificant, was 
only a trained machine automatically operated, 
alas, nothing at all but the porter. 

I was tired, so was the Old Woman, but the 
apartment assigned us was too much for me. 
The chairs if you touched them were soft as down 
and had a dreadful tendency to sink towards the 
floor. I preferred to sit on a more substantial 
lounge that I finally espied. The folds of the car- 
pet brushed your feet, the tapestries enfolding 
all above and around; chandeliers dazzling and 
glittering to the eye, instead of comfort, filled one 
with the fear of a Cinderella's palace. I was un- 
nerved, but the Old Woman said she was going 
to bed. I watched her sink out of sight in the 
folds of softest covering, and soon heard her de- 
clare the order for me to come on. With reluc- 
tance I ventured, and while on first trial I had 
the sensation of one descending with a sudden 
drop of an elevator, was soon fast asleep in the 
bahnv embrace of charming slumber. 

The next day was Sunday. In company with 
Bishop Gaines and daughter, whom we found 
were guests at the same hotel, we procured a car- 
riage and proceeded to City Rhodes' chapel to at- 
tend service. Here we met the men of our party, 
who had accompanied us across the ocean. 



KING EDWARD'S KINGDOM. 29- 

The chapel was very plain but neat and charm- 
ing. The choir held their place in the middle of 
the church; the organ most elegant had two sets 
of pipes resting in either gallery. The Episcopal 
service was conducted ; the preaching was simple, 
the discussion was on the life of Enoch. The 
regular pastor was away attending conference; 
however, we met his assistant and the officers, and 
were very kindly treated by them. 

At the conclusion of the service, we visited the 
cemetery and beheld the tomb of the immortal 
Wesley. I had the good fortune to sit in the chair 
orice occupied by Wesley and to stand in the pul- 
pit from which this great man of God so often 
expounded the word of salvation to dying men. 

We visited the house that this good man for- 
merly lived in, a quiet old-fashioned looking 
place, and amid it all there came upon me the in- 
spiration of the spirit of this great man, which 
has infused me jmore in the service of the Gospel 
ministry than ever before. 

Our association with our colleague, Bishop 
Gaines, was very pleasant ; our going to and fro 
attracted the gaze of the many. Such representa- 
tives of humanity were not a daily scene even in 
the wonderful city of old London, and that made 
more conspicuous by going to and fro in an open 
carriage. Of course Bishop Gaines was the ob- 
ject of greatest attraction, I suppose. He was so 
large, and I judge by his actions he felt about 
three feet broader and an equal number higher. 



30 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

yet we all enjoyed the degree of liberty and the 
many pleasantries that this association and occa- 
sion proffered. 

In the afternoon and evening of the same day, 
we attended service at the fajrnous Westminster 
Abbey. As I passed its threshold, it seemed like 
stepping back into the regions of antiquity, and 
losing myself among the shades of former ages. 

It seems as if the awful nature of the place 
presses down upon the soul, and hushes the visitor 
into noiseless reverence. One feels that they are 
surrounded by the congregated bones of the great 
men of past times, who have filled history with 
their deeds, and the earth with their renown. 

Here is to be found the poet's corner and the 
sepulchre of kings. 

The Abbey is most magnificent, but few struc- 
tures of its kind are equal to it. The services are 
grand and elevating, the impression is wonderful ; 
they will hardly be forgotten in a lifetime. 

At the time of service, the choristers in their 
white surplices, enter the choir. Suddenly the 
notes of the deep laboring organ burst upon the 
ear, falling with doubled and redoubled intensity, 
and rolling, as it were, huge billows of sound. 
How well do their volume and grandeur accord 
with this mighty building, with its pomp of archi- 
tecture, and the elaborate beauty of sculptured 
detail. With what pomp do they swell through 
its arches, and then rise in triumphant acclima- 
tion, heaving higher and higher their accordant 



KING EDWARD'S KINGDOM. 31 

notes, and piling sound on sound — they pause, 
and the soft voices of the choir break out into 
sweet gushes of melody ; they soar aloft, and war- 
ble along the roof, and seem to play about its 
height like the air pure from heaven. Again the 
pealing organ heaves its thrilling thunders, com- 
pressing air into music, and rolling it forth upon 
the soul. 

I sat for some time lost in that kind of reverie 
which a strain of music is apt sometimes to in- 
spire. Bishop Wilberforce, an able and powerful 
speaker, presented the theme, and ere I departed 
I felt the influence of his burning words of Gos- 
pel truth moving upon my soul. 

On Monday, the 29th of July, we took an omni- 
bus, called on Cook & Sons, and perfected our 
plans for a journey through the continent. We 
had our money exchanged for gold, went shop- 
ping, and after a night of refreshing sleep arose 
on Tuesday morning, got in a hocky carriage, and 
paid a visit to the Queen's park. Nothing can be 
more imposing than the magnificence of English 
park scenery. Vast lawns that extend like sheets 
of vivid green, with here and there clumps of 
gigantic trees, heaping up rich piles of foliage. 
The solemn pomp of groves and woodland glades, 
with the deer trooping in silent herds across 
them ; the hare, bounding away to the covert, or 
the pheasant, suddenly bursting upon the wing. 
The brook, taught to wind in natural meander- 
ings, or expand into a glassy lake — the seques 



32 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

tered pool, reflecting the quivering trees, with the 
green leaf sleeping on its bosdm, and the trout 
roaming fearlessly about its liquid waters. These 
are but a few of the features of park scenery, and 
with such elaborate imagery of description, fails 
to give the reader a true conception of the beauties 
of Queen's Park. 

We also visited the place where Queen Victoria 
was born, and beheld the grandeur of her palace. 
King Edward was home at this time, but we were 
unable to see him. Parliament was in session, 
but not having a ticket of admission,, we were de- 
prived the privilege of witnessing the delibera- 
tions of this renowned body. After spending 
many hours in further sight-seeing, on Wednes- 
day, the 31st, we made our way to the Victoria 
depot, purchased tickets for Dover, crossed the 
English channel, which occupied three hours, and 
late that evening put in to port at Ostende, Bel- 
gium. 



0:3 ;j z<* 



chapter nr 

IveopolPs Kingdom. 

Belgium is one of the smallest, most prosperous 
and yet conspicuous of the European dynasties. 
Her people are the most patriotic to be found on 
the continent. From dependency and the rule ">f 
greater powers by her heroism she has wrenched 
her independence, and to-day enjoys a liberty and 
freedom that is unrivalled by republics them 
selves. 

We reached Ostend at 3 P. M., underwent the 
inspection of the custom officials, and while this is 
a most beautiful summer resort, capable of af- 
fording much enjoyment, we were unable for the 
pressure of time to tarry at any length as we 
would have desired. 

Taking the railroad carriage, we proceeded to 
the famous city of interest. Brussels. This is the 
capital and metropolis, as well as a great manu- 
facturing centre. The Metropolo became our 
headquarters. The people are French and Dutch, 
not speaking either language, it is hard for us to 
understand them. 

We visited the Arcade, purchased several 
souvenirs and attended the public concert that 
was being given, as in many of the European 
centres musicals are a part of the consideration 
given as a public benefit. The same was highl^ 



34 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

enjoyed by us, to say the least. A very fine and 
notable art gallery is located here. Most all the 
famous paintings of the Catholic Church are to 
he found in this collection, hardly to be excelled 
in any other part of the world. A visit to St. 
James' Church was another feature of the great- 
est interest to us. Here is to be found one of the 
principal statues of St. Peter, with the historic 
rooster standing at his side, a suggestive reminder 
to the traveler of the backsliding period in this 
o-reat man's history of the past, 
p. In this church it is said the famous Napoleon 
worshipped, and it is here that the present King 
receives his religious consolations. A private 
room is provided for him for this purpose. I took 
the privilege to enter the altar of the sanctuary 
and to examine the christening fount, which be- 
came of special interest to me. The church is con- 
nected to the King's palace by an archway that 
for convenience and in private the monarch may 
enter and depart without embarrassment or in- 
terference. 

The royal palace is most beautiful and more 
interesting than the church to which it is attached. 
It is heavily guarded by soldiers. A visit to the 
inclosure or in his presence is a most difficult 
privilege to be obtained; thus like many another, 
we were deprived of the novelty. However, we 
embraced the opportunity of visiting the lower 
and higher courts, the Court of Appeals and the 
.Supreme Court. I sat in the chair occupied by the 



LEOPOLD'S KINGDOM. 35 

Chief Justice, then proceeded to the dome of the 
building" and took a bird's-eye view of the city, 
which was a most beautiful sight. 

The habits of the people are most striking to 
the tourist, and here is to be seen features of life 
that are most strange to the Western world. In- 
stead of horses, dogs are hitched to the carts of 
traffic. The dog- occupies one side of the shaft to 
the vehicle, the woman the other. I am sure such 
would be a case of humane consideration and a 
license of shame if seen or practised in any part 
of the civilized America. From here we made 
our departure for Rotterdam. Both are beauti- 
ful cities. Thev are remarkable for their quaint 
red-brick houses, standing with the gables to- 
ward the streets. The latter are traversed by 
canals, which are spanned by draw bridges, and 
lined with broad quays. Vessels are to be seen in 
all parts, moving to and fro, loading and un- 
loading. 

Probably one of the most striking sights to the 
eye of the traveler is the system of canals and 
dykes to be seen so plentiful throughout the 
realms of this province. On inquiring their ori- 
gin, we are told that in the earlier days of its in- 
dependence, the freedom imposed became an in- 
ducement to a great number of Calvinist refugees 
from the Belgic States of France and Germain'. 
So thick was the crowd in some places, that many 
fa'milies lived in boats. But here the native en- 
terprise found a speedy remedy ; the Bremstersee 



36 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

was drained, and the wonderful water Staat, or 
system of canals and dykes, was brought all over 
the land. 

Belgium is a fine country to behold. Some 
places are flat, often rising to promontories or 
hills surrounded with dense forests. Its fields of 
harvest are models. Here are to be found the 
women in the field doing service to the earth along- 
side of the men. That they are equal to the task. 
i< not gainsaid to the eye witness who beholding 
their strength in cutting and pitching the grain 
and wheeling the barrow, puts to doubt the inex- 
perienced questioner. I am sure when considered 
m the light of the menials of other countries, es- 
pecially our women of the south land in America., 
the latter are much better conditioned even at the 
worst, than this custom found so prevalent in the 
Belgium realms. 



c.o 



CHAPTER IV. 
Queen Wilhelmina's Kingdom. 

As we have previously stated, on Saturday, 
August the 3rd, we arrived in the Kingdom of 
Holland, in the city of Amsterdam. 

This is the constitutional capital and largest 
city. It is also considered one of the chief com- 
mercial centres of Europe. The country is mostly 
flat, and like Belgium, is intersected by numer- 
ous rivers and canals. The surface being below 
the level of the sea, is protected by high dykes. 
While Amsterdam is the constitutional capital, 
The Hague is the seat of the court. This noted 
city has also become the seat of the arbitration 
court of international differences of the world. 

The universally beloved Queen has lately mar- 
ried a Prince from the German household, and as 
the result of some domestic difficulties and the 
high-minded prejudices of her subjects, was at 
this time the subject of much discussion. Some 
gossips are saying that there is an estrangement 
between the Queen and her Prince Consort, while 
a number of other stories are as generally current. 

It was here that we met Bishop Gaines and his 
daughter again, which was a most pleasant greet- 
ing to come in touch with the embrace of old 
acquaintances so many thousand miles from home 
and the many dear ones we knew. 



38 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

Amsterdam is a beautiful city situated on the 
Zuvder Zee bay. Excursionists are continually 
to be seen coming and going on this lovely stream. 
Many people are engaged in fishing, this is 
their means of livelihood, and here as in Belgium, 
the faithful spouse is to be seen helping her hus- 
band fixing and sometimes sailing the small craft 
or fishers' smack, as they are called. The wea- 
ther is gloomy during our stay here, and the peo- 
ple are dressed more for winter than summer 
weather. Some, however, are to be seen with the 
regulation season attire. 

The policemen look and dress like soldiers. 
Instead of a baton they carry a sword. All the 
people look the same as those we have seen be- 
fore, and I am persuaded as the often vaunted 
expression of our American brother as relates to 
the Negro, "That all people look alike to me." 

Holland is especially noted for her orphanages. 
Probably no other country in the world, accord- 
ing to their numbers and resources, are the equals 
in this respect to this small Kingdom. 

The little Queen and her mother have become 
world famed for their efforts in this work in be- 
half of their people. 

In these institutions so numerous, various are 
the garbs assumed. The tidy and tasteful vigil- 
are to be seen in their quietness wending" their 
way here and there clad in lace caps, gingham 
dresses, some of a slate, black, brown and even 
purple color. There is a specially distinguished 



OUfiRN WII^HELMIN.VS KINGDOM. 39 

order of these women who wear one side of their 
dress red and the other black. There are men to 
be seen of the same order, and their trousers are 
like conditioned. We were here also as in Bel- 
gium, treated to a fine public musical. 

On Sunday, the 7th, we attended the Episcopal 
service, and was greatly benefited by a most ex- 
cellent sermon, which was taken from Judges, it 
being in English. The dear old mother tongue 
was welcome, if not delightful to such wanderers 
as ourselves, who from morning to night, day in 
and day out, was surrounded by the babble of 
foreign tongues. 

Sunday reverence is not the highest regarded 
here. The vegetable vender sells his wares on 
this day the same as any other. Even the stores 
are kept open ; that is, those who prefer to, and as 
a rule the majority of them so desire and do. 

Surprising-, we have not seen any electric cars 
since we left New York city. The old-fashioned 
horse system is in vogue everywhere thus far. 

The streets are laid off very prettily. The peo- 
ple admire the beauty of the same; thus they will 
not suffer the planting of ugly and numerous 
poles to mar their looks. 

Having concluded our visit of the principal 
places of interest, not excepting the Queen's pal- 
ace, we prepared our retinue on Monday and be- 
took ourselves to the great German Empire. 



CHAPTER V. 
Emperor William's Kingdom. 

The German Empire is composed of twenty-six 
States, each with its respective capitol and petty 
ruler. The largest of these States is the King- 
dom of Prussia ; next in importance is Saxony. 
Bavaria and Wurtemburg. As among the coun- 
tries of Europe it ranks next to Russia in popu- 
lation. The empire is a limited monarchy. The 
States have control of their own local affairs, 
while the King of Prussia is Emperor of Ger- 
many. 

Here are to be found some of the leading seats 
of learning in the world. Berlin is the capitol 
and the third city of Europe in size. Being limit- 
ed for time, we were unable to turn from our 
course previously laid out and pay a visit to this 
citv of so much fame and interest. 

\Ye visited Emmerich, also Cologne, the latter 
most famous for its .manufacture of that pre- 
cious toilet delicacy, after which this city takes 
its name, Cologne. During our stay here, we 
were the guest of the Disch hotel. From its win- 
dows we could view the pedestrians so often 
amusing. The women here, those of the menial 
class, like so many others on the continent, are 
largely used as beasts of burden. I am sure the 
'.loads thev carry on their heads, and this seem^ 



EMPORER WILLIAM'S KINGDOM. 43 

to be their most favorite method, would crush 
many a one of her sex. 

Germany will always hold an interesting place 
in the minds of the traveler who is acquainted 
with its history. Within her domains was born 
such renowned and world-famed characters as 
Copernicus, Kelper, Humbolt and Bismarck. As 
you travel through her domains these mighty 
ones who have formed her character and built her 
greatness, in monumental grandeur, rise up be- 
fore your vision, and you can not help but admire 
the land over which you ride, made sacred and 
blooming as the rose by their service, sacrifice and 
blood. 

Germany is a pretty country. As you ride her 
territory and behold her fields of green, pretty 
landscapes and thriving industries, her worth is 
instantly impressed upon the stranger. 

Switzerland is our next objective point, and on 
the 6th, we made our departure for those parts, 
bidding a long farewell to this mighty empire of 
the Josephs that we never again expected to 
behold. 



CHAPTER VI. 
hemp's Kingdom. 

We now enter old Switzerland, the land of 
snowy peaks, mountain- turrets, crystal lakes, pic- 
turesque valleys and the grandest scenery. All 
the wav from Cologne to Basil one is edified with 
the beautiful and fascinating scenery of the 
Rhine. From our window at the latter place its 
rippling sprays and sparkling laughter were al- 
ways displayed. How charming when seated on 
the piazza to behold its pleasant face. 

Tn boarding the wrong train we found that 
here as in America one must pay for their mis- 
takes, so we were permitted to pursue our jour- 
ney for the extra fee of four dollars and fift)' 
cents. We arrived at Geneva at 1:15 on the fol- 
lowing day and took quarters at Grand Hotel Des 
Bergues. Sight seeing became our principal oc- 
cupation as formerly at the previous places we 
had visited. Geneva is the metropolis of this 
country and is noted for its watches and jewelry. 
Being a jewelry smith in past years myself, it is 
to be judged of course that T, above all other 
things, would be most interested in these noble 
and famed establishments of my trade. My time 
was full}- paid, while my expectancies were more 

Note — Switzerland is not now a kingdom in a political sense, it has 
been and in the light under which it now appears and as we have been 
nmpressed, we thus name or discuss it as such. 



ZEMP'S KINGDOM. 45' 

than fulfilled in the appointment of these mighty 
industries of world-wide reputation. 

After a ride about the city, we paid a visit to 
the historic home of the lamented Voltaire, the 
great philosopher and agnostic of the seventeenth 
century. His home is most neatly kept in order 
and all relics carefully preserved as objects of 
interest to the traveler. Here is the tomb where 
his faithful patrons have buried the heart of this 
great man. His body we learned is buried in the 
city of Paris. From the beautiful gardens of this 
home so nicely kept one is favored with a splen- 
did view of the snow-covered Alps in the far dis- 
tance. What a lovely sight, the snow appearing 
so white, as the Old Woman put it, "Looks just 
like ice cream." One part of this gigantic wonder 
reminded one of a man's hat, while the other re- 
sembled a huge bed of snow. 

On taking our leave from this weird home, the 
mind is flooded with the thoughts of this famous 
yet heart-broken man of past greatness. How 
through persecution by the religious sects he was 
banished from his native home in France. The 
refuge of grandeur accorded him at the Austrian 
court, his envious, hence strained and miserable 
association with Frederick the Great, the most 
powerful and greatest of Kings of his day, and 
finally this his last refuge to another and foreign 
land, where he was received and spent the re- 
mainder of his days. 

Trulv a<>ain has the words of the Lowlv Xaz- 



46 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

arene, in whom this man believed little, proved 
true, "That a prophet is without honors save in 
his own country." Now that he is dead, his coun- 
try bestows honor upon the crumbling body that 
it refused to extend his existence, which like so 
many others of equal greatness, are not appre- 
ciated or respected by their present age and arc- 
only rightly honored after death by the children 
of future centuries. 

Returning to our hotel, we entered the dining 
hall for lunch, and to our surprise for the first 
time during our journey we beheld a colored man 
and his white wife. There seemed to be no sur- 
prise or curiosity at their presence, and from all 
appearances it was just as acceptable a situation 
as any other that we saw. It revealed the fact, 
however, that color in marriages in these cosmo- 
politan countries, where conditions are not based 
on complexion, has but little significance. In this 
respect it may rightfully be said that Europe is 
more broad and liberal in her views on such 
racial matters than the States whose broad motto, 
though narrowly applied, is: "The home of the 
brave and the land of the free." 

Saturday, the ioth, we took the train for La 
Suisse station, thence the incline for a trip up 
Mt. Jung. This was a distance of 16,420 yards. 
The latter is the standard of measurement in 
Switzerland, unlike our system, which is figured 
by inches and feet. From this height a fulsome 
view is to be had of the snow mountains which 



ZEMP'S KINGDOM. 47 

.are a great distance off, and whose peaks are a 
mile or more apart. Our experience and exercise 
was most delightful. We climbed Mt. Jung as 
far as our strength would allow, when upon 
reaching a favored spot we sat on a very large 
rock to rest, and taking our opera glasses we 
amused ourselves farther by fascinating views 
of the surrounding arms of these mammoth 
hills and the valley below. From our extreme 
height the depth beneath was a fearful sight to 
behold. 

We were in touch from our present position 
with the White Mountain. The snow was melt- 
ing and running down its sides. Here it was that 
the Old Woman became most daring in her con- 
templation of the sublime and beautiful and pro- 
ceeded at a mighty risk to gather and bottle some 
of this snow. I tried to dissuade her, but to no 
avail ; so clinging to the rocks she descended, 
reached out as far as possible and succeeded in 
capturing her coveted prize. I thought sure that 
any moment would be her last. Once her de- 
scent gave me the greatest alarm. I cried aloud, 
"Old Woman, take care!" It was soon all over, 
however, and to my comfort and her delight, she 
returned shortly every whit whole, both bottle 
and snow. I must confess she was more daring 
than I could ever have been. Even now I would 
not venture such a risk; no, not for my weight in 
gold. 

Aside from the personal interest of such ad- 



48 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

venture, it is a source of much fun to see the peo- 
ple ascending the mountain, every train, and they 
are many, crowded full. We are no different 
than any of the others, as the occasion requires, 
like children, we, too, are running to get a favored 
seat in the cars or on the boat. In climbing, the 
women either pin or tie up their petticoats, while 
the men stuff the bottom of their pantaloons in 
their socks. The old women try to be young; 
they are as jolly as the girls. Every one is pro- 
vided with a stick, in the bottom of which is a 
large iron prong. This is to enable them to climb 
more easier. This stick is jabbed in the sand be- 
neath the rocks, the weight of the body is pressed 
against it. Thus resting, the climber is enabled 
to take two steps forward, when the stick is with- 
drawn and the process constantly repeated by the 
traveler until he reaches his journey's end. 

Our present stopping place is the retreat of 
many tourists, and many are trie places of amuse- 
ment to which one may resort. We are often 
entertained by the regular evening concerts, which 
are very largely attended by the fashionable set 
as well. 

The Alps constantly rise up before our vision. 
They are to be seen on clear days as a huge cloud 
in the distance. We are told that no one has been 
known to ascend to the tops of this mightiest of 
hills for ages, that the oldest person in these parts 
cannot recall to knowledge the accomplishment of 
such a fete by the most daring. On Friday, Au- 



ZKMP'S KINGDOM. 4D 

gust the 9th, a gentleman whose name we were 
unable to find out, with two guides, attempted a 
venture up its sides, but being overcome with ex- 
haustion hcid to return. It is reported that they 
had a most severe and thrilling experience and it 
is thought they will be sick as a result of it. We 
paid a visit to Mountain (F) and then enjoyed a 
most sumptuous meal of boiled meats. All meats 
are boiled in these parts ; in fact, we have not 
eaten any fried meats since we left the States. 
Thus you seldom find any dyspepsia or indiges- 
tion over here. 

On the nth, we went to the Episcopal Church 
to service. The sermon was concerning the life 
of the Apostle Paul. We took communion, after 
which we retired to our hotel, the Victoria, and 
amidst the howling elements without, for it was 
a very stormy night, retired for a much-needed 
rest. 

As to some of the various ways of entertain- 
ment, and I would not fail to mention them, as 
they were indulged on a Sunday night ; without 
conscientious compunctions some were playing 
cards, enjoying- concerts and even sewing. Me 
thought how strange the dispositions and liberal 
their creeds as you come in touch with their live 
interpretation throughout the abodes of life. 
Truly to know man, not as you see and know him 
in your native heath, one must needs travel and 
by general contact with him through his various 
walks in life, thus study and learn to know him 
as he is. 



50 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

It was here we met a very pleasant and friend- 
ly Episcopal clergyman, and how different was he 
from the average gentleman of the cloth which 
yon are accustomed to meet in the States. Oh! 
how sociable and what a difference association 
makes when men unprejudiced by taint of senti- 
ment meet, and interests of purity at least unite 
them in friendly embrace. Such was the freedom 
of our acquaintance, and what a pleasant time 
with mutual interest did we spend together. 

On the 1 2th, we rounded up at Interlaken at 
the foot of the White Mountain, but did not tra- 
verse its sides. On approaching Interlaken the 
caps of the snow mountains as the sun is going 
down presents a picture that is sublime in gran- 
deur. 

As the light of old Sol throws its smiles up on 
its whitened tops at the end of a successful day's 
journey, it gives it the appearance of a huge mass 
of gold, dazzling one's eyes as their dying smiles 
and golden dust from eyebrows seem to fall upon 
its sides. 

Standing on the veranda, the scene is enhanced, 
as the moon, the proud queen of the night, in her 
fiery garments, shakes her robes until the dust of 
falling snow, appears like huge pieces of silver, 
and each flake catching the dust as it falls from 
the folds of her garments, making the appearance 
of so many drops of pearl, as waters run down its 
sides, looks like streams of melted rubies. 

From here we moved to Cacciso, had our bag- 



ZEMP'S KINGDOM. 51 

gage inspected, and entered the land of the 

Caesars, bidding adieu to the landscapes of the 
picturesque Switzerland. 



CHAPTER VII. 
Victor Emanuel's Kingdom. 

On the 13th, we started for a tour of fair Italy, 
which lies south of the Alps. What a delightful 
emotion to the traveler as he enters and crosses 
this famous country so renowned in the history 
of the world, with its teeming rice glades, fields 
of wheat, olive groves, marble quarries and an- 
tiquated ruins. 

The country through which we travel is most 
beautiful. Behold the luxuriant flax fields, with 
its busy harvesters tieing it into bundles like 
wheat, carrying it and piling it into stacks to dry, 
after which it is placed into a pond of water, 
rocks are piled on it, thence it is taken out to dry 
again, and finally is laid away in the barns until 
it is carted to the mills to be ground into meal. 

Water melons and cantaloupes are seen grow- 
ing on the hills, but they are very small, much 
smaller than the variety grown in the Southern 
States of America. Their taste is not near so 
sweet as the Western product, either. 

The many small towns you pass look like small 
cities and are scattered everywhere on the hills 
and through the valley. 

The country roads are hard to be excelled any- 
where. No wonder, for they have occupied the 
attention of this people ever since the davs of the 




Mrs. PRISCILLA SALTER, 
Wife and Companion of the Author. 



VICTOR KMANUKL'S KINGDOM. 55 

proud and world-famed Roman, over which her 
conquering legions sped their way. 

Italy, like Switzerland, in many places of her 
borders is very mountainous. Her tunnels 
through which one must pass are endless and 
horrid as well as interesting to the stranger of 
limited experience. Without a guide book it is 
impossible to give their names, as you are con- 
stantly going through their dismal caverns. We 
passed through one that took the train twenty- 
five minutes to reach the opening on the other 
side. To say the least, we felt quite outdone 
when we reached daylight once more. We de- 
sired never to pass through another one like it, 
although we have had many similar experiences 
since then. 

Once we passed under a part of the snow moun- 
tains, which is a part of the Alps. One could 
see the snow before and after entering. It is a 
pretty sight to look upon, but does not give one 
the best feeling while riding beneath. 

Thus we continued across the beautiful coun- 
try until noon of the 13th day of August, when 
we at last arrived at the lovely city of Venice in 
the sea. And what a sight that bursts upon the 
gaze of the stranger, the multitude of domes, tem- 
ples, palaces, columns, rising out of the bosom of 
the waters, looked at a distance like a city under 
water, and produced a feeling of surprise and 
fear. Her palaces seemed to rise out of the sea, 
and the churches sat so easily upon the waters, 



56 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

that a feeling of sudden engulf ment appeared to 
be among the most natural fancies of the moment. 

At night the lighting up of St. Marks contin- 
ued to heighten the magic of the spell. I could 
scarcely imagine that I was at the end of my 
journey and the place of my present sojourn. 

The chief peculiarity of Venice is its insulated 
position in the lagoon, and you move about 
Venice entirely by gondola. To use any other 
mode of conveyance would be but to disturb the 
high associations connected with this queen of the 
seas, and would be attended with no less incon- 
venience than fatigue. What could be more plea- 
sant than the noiseless tread of waters in a float- 
ing barge ? What more mysteriously fascinating* 
than a passage around and among her palaces 
and churches, in a strange and mystic boat, with 
nothing to disturb your reveries but the light 
splash of the well-turned oar, or the long cry of 
a passing gondolier? To have missed the sight 
of Venice would have been to have blotted out a 
day. Next to Rome, what city is freighted with 
such pleasing memories of the past? 

No time ought to be lost in visiting Venice, to 
contemplate the works of Titian, the paintings of 
Tintorette, the statues, the palaces, the temples 
and the mausoleums, which are tottering on the 
verge of destruction. Her singular position on 
the bosom of the waves, disposes one to many 
hours of reverie and repose; and even now, in her 
decline, she seems to have slept away from the 



VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM. 57 

date of her ancient glories, as listlessly as she her- 
self seems to have slidden off from the terra-firma 
of the shore. 

Some years ago, a bold plan was proposed by 
a zealous Venetian, in order to prevent the ruins 
of his city, which was to join Venice to the Con- 
tinent. A road was to have been made at the 
narrowest point of the lagoon as a means of com- 
munication, but the plan failed, and a railroad has 
been substituted in its stead, a project no less use- 
ful, though not so poetical or imaginative in its 
aspect. 

The piazza of St. Mark's has not its like in 
the world. The East and West are there brought 
into each other's presence. 

On one side, the ducal palace, where resides the 
King, with its indented architecture, the balconies 
and galleries of Arabian monuments, and the 
Church of St. Mark's itself, with its angular front 
and lead-covered cupolas, while again, regular 
arcades, with shops, similar to the Palais Royal 
at Paris. 

The same contrast is to be found among the 
men. There are Armenians, Turks, Greeks — 
some lying down, others taking coffee and sher- 
bert under large awnings of different brilliant 
colors, resembling tents — some smoking perfumes 
in their long amber-tipped pipes of rosewood (a 
crowd of indolent and majestic automata), while 
European travelers, and others, occupied with 
their business, are hurriedly passing to and fro. 



58 .THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

The infinite number of pigeons that cover the 
piazza of St. Mark's, the cupola of the church, 
and the roofs of the ducal palace, add also to the 
mystic aspect of these monuments. These pig- 
eons, we are told, have been in Venice from its 
earliest days, and such was the interest they ex- 
cited that, to comply with the wishes of the pub- 
lic, it was decreed that they should not only re- 
main unmolested, but be fed at the expense of the 
State. 

Venice still palpitates in the piazza of St, 
Mark's. This brilliant decoration costs a million 
annually in repairs; while other distant quarters, 
some of which possess magnificent palaces, were 
left to fall into ruins. This corpse of a city is 
already cold at the extremities — the life and heat 
remaining are confined to the heart. At the ex- 
tremity of the piazza there are three pili or flag- 
staffs, which formerly bore the glorious standard 
of St. Mark, now replaced by the Italian flag. 
The pedestals of these masts are bronze, and pos- 
sess the elegance and taste of the Grecian artists. 
They have been there upwards of three centuries, 
exposed to the injury of the air, the African 
siroccos, and to the misty saline spray of the rag- 
ing Adriatic. 

At one end of this piazza stands the Cathedral 
the church which the King attends. Underneath 
its present pile rests the old church, beneath which 
St. Mark the Apostle is buried. 

The basilic of St. Mark's was besfun about the 



VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM. 59 

tenth century. It is of a checkered architecture, 
a mixture of Greek and Roman, but more espec- 
ially Gothic. On looking at her minarets, mo- 
saics, basso-relievos of ornamental art, one feels 
that the Adratic has been wedded jto the East, 
and that those peculiarities which are usually re- 
ceived from strangers, here, have only been trans- 
ferred in the varieties of her commerce. 

On seeing' these splendid compartments — the 
golden arched roofs, the pavement of jasper and 
porphyry, the five hundred columns of black, 
white and veined marble, of bronze alabaster, 
vert antique, and serpentine — one would feel in- 
clined to take this christian temple, except that it 
is somewhat too gloomily lighted, to be a palace 
of the Arabian Nights. Religion has preserved 
all these riches, which might have been dissipated 
in the speculations and enterprises of a commer- 
cial and navigating people. 

The benitier, or holy- water vase, of porphyry, 
is supported by an antique altar of Grecian sculp- 
ture, ornamented with dolphins and tridents. One 
of the bronze doors of the baptistery appears to 
have been brought from the basilic of St. Sophia. 

The bronze gate of the vestry occupied thirty 
years of Sansovine's existence. The grand chan- 
delier of St. Mark's, notwithstanding the oddness 
of its base, is considered one of the most remark- 
able works of its kind, for the taste and nature of 
the figures and the elegance of the ornaments. 
The very stones of Venice are indelibly impressed 



THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

with her history. A red marble pavement marks 
the nave of the ancient church and the original 
limit of the place of St. Mark. A white stone, 
not far thence, in a retired street, shows where the 
Catiline of Venice was killed by the accidental 
fall of a flower pot, dislodged by a curious old 
woman, who was watching his procession as he 
passed beneath her window. 

St. Mark's presents also a collection of relics 
of the greatest antiquity, the various mementoes 
of conquest and revolution. The four famous 
horses of Corinth have resumed their former po- 
sition on the tribune, over the principal door. 
Never was a trophy of victory more modestly 
placed, or worse, for they are scarcely perceptible. 
Won at Constantinople, brought back from Paris, 
these Greeks or Roman steeds are associated with 
the two grandest instances of taken towns that 
history records. 

But it is at evening that the Piazza of St. Mark's 
awakes a golden or Gothic vision of Eastern 
splendor and architectural grace. Then the noble 
old Duomo, with its gilded cupola, silvered over 
with a rich frosting of moonlight, revives the tales 
of the Arabian Nights, or the splendors of the 
vales of the Alhambra. Near by stands the old 
Clock Tower, where two mechanical figures strike 
the hours as they pass, and on both sides are the 
facades of the Procuratic palaces, those brilliant 
structures of Sansovino's genius, displaying the 
perfection of their architectural symmetry. 



VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM. 01 

Amid all these, the high, grand, luminous mass 
of the Campanile looms upward towards the sky, 
towering above all, and guardian of that scene of 
magical effects below, where the crowds of motley 
wear are moving in promenade, over the pave- 
ment, or seated at table with their ices, under the 
arcades of the palaces of St. Mark's. 

DUCAL PALACE. 

The Ducal Palace — the boast of Venice — by its 
architecture and stern, gloomy aspect, gives no 
bad representation to its ancient government; it 
is the capitol of aristocratic power; its origin, 
even, is surrounded with terrors; the Doge who 
began it, Marine Faliero, lost his head, and the 
architect was hung as a conspirator. The names, 
too, of some parts of it, are in unison with the 
impression it produces. The Giant's stairs, a su- 
perb structure, witnessed the coronation of the 
Doges, and the Bridge of Sig"hs has the shape of 
a large sarcophagus suspended over the sea. A 
palace, a prison, and a tribunal, one might say, if 
the word centralization were not ridiculous, ap- 
plied under such circumstances, that the Ducal 
Palace had the first and most terrible example. 

Notwithstanding the heavy, forbidden appear- 
ance of the Ducal Palace, the interior has some 
rich works of art, which adorn her ceilings, and 
cause you to forget the terrors of the Inquisition, 
the Lion's Mouth, or deep dungeons of pozzi. 

Its exterior has some elegant details, and in 
some parts is remarkable, in an artistic point of 



•62 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

view. The capitals of the Tuscan columns, in the 
front, ornamented with foliage, figures, and sym- 
bols, original masterpieces of a taste at once bold 
and pure, and so interesting for the history of art, 
are chiefly by Calendario, the Michael Angelo of 
the middle ages — equally eminent as a sculptor 
and architect, — whose foundations of the Ducal 
Palace, on the unstable soil of Venice, are still a 
miracle for solidity. 

The by-gone glory and splendor of Venice are 
conspicuous in every part of the Palace. The in- 
terior walls are decorated with the frescoes of 
Titian, the paintings of Veronese, the superb 
works of Palladio, and the immense entablatures 
of Tintorette, which recall the grand events of 
its history. These beautiful works breathe a 
species of patriotism. Venice ever stands forth 
in them as the emblems of might, grandeur and 
beauty; and she is a powerful goddess, who 
breaks the chains of the bondsman, and receives 
the homage of subjugated cities ; she is seated in 
Heaven amid the saints; she is represented as sit- 
ting between Justice and Peace : she is encircled 
by the Virtues, crowned by Victory, or appears in 
the clouds amid a throng of deities ; allegory there 
loses its ordinary coldness, as it serves to express 
a feeling of patriotic pride. 

What a melancholy of pleasure there is in step- 
ping from the quay into your gondola and gliding 
along the grand canal, in wandering amid those 
superb palaces, those ancient aristocratic dwell- 



VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM. 63 

ings which bear such fine names, and are the 
memorials of so much power and glory, but are 
now desolate, shattered, or in ruins. These 
Moorish windows, these balconies, whence the 
fair Venetian, shut up like the Eastern dame, but 
volatile as the European, appeared to her lover, 
as he reluctantly retreated to his gondola, are now 
dilapidated, without glass, or rudely boarded. 
Some few of them, in good condition, only bear 
the inscription of some of the authorities of the 
ancients. In the midst of this distraction the 
gardens supply the place of the buildings at 
Venice. 

But alas, we bid thee adieu, fairest city of the 
sea, amid your day dreams upon canals, with 
nightly visions of Aladdin lustre, by her moon- 
lights and the torch flames of St. Mark's Piazza 
which were the sum and rounding of our day 
vigils and thrilling life spent in so short a time at 
Venice. 

Venice, thou art "A thing of beauty and a joy 
forever." 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Rome— The Vatican — and the Home 
of the Caesars. 

Wednesday, August the 14th, we made our de- 
parture for the capital and famous city of Rome. 
We passed through Bologne, thence the beautiful 
city of Florence amid its verdure and zephyr 
breezes that has distinguished it as one of the 
fairest of Italy's daughters. At 1 1 125 we drew 
up at the Continental Hotel, and at last became 
conscious that we were embraced in the arms of 
this most historic spot of civilization, — the world. 

Entering Rome by moon-light, the Eternal City 
was hushed in the solemn silence of the night, 
bathed in a Hood of the richest light. 

It was a transport of deep joy to be in Rome, 
there to collect mementoes for a life-time and a 
day from which to date an epoch. We looked 
upon the Coliseum and its collossal mass of ruins 
and its arcades appeared truly resplendent. Each 
step, as we clambered over the different stages of 
the majestic pile opened a new chapter in the his- 
tory of the changes which had taken place during 
eighteen centuries. No monument of antiquity — 
for none so fit to represent the image of ancient 
Rome — has experienced so many different fortunes, 
or such a diversity of uses, as this. A magnifi- 



ROMK— THE VATICAN 65 

cent circus of gladiators, under Titus — an arena 
of . martyrs, under Diocletian, and a military re- 
doubt; it was a hospital during plagues, or a list 
for tournaments of knights ; then a stone quarry, 
from which most of the palaces of Rome have 
been built. What barbarians have handled its 
vastness, to corrupt its beauty by a taint of their 
sacrilegious art. Its ruined appearance is one of 
its greatest beauties. It has already been too 
much renovated, and rebuilt, and modernized. 

The Cross is now planted within the walls of 
the amphitheatre, where Christian martyrs were 
burned. It still stands a monument of the vic- 
tories, festivals, crimes, and imperial pleasures 
of ancient Rome — the ruined Mausoleum to thee. 

There are many churches of interest to be vis- 
ited in this most historic city. A chapel has been 
erected over the spot where St. Peter was tried; 
It also contains the chain with which the Apostle 
was bound in prison at Jerusalem. 

In the interior of the Mamertine prison — that 
terrible ancient dungeon, formed of enormous 
stones, joined together without cement — there is 
now a chapel consecrated to St. Peter and St. 
Paul, who, by tradition, are said to have been 
imprisoned there. 

A beautiful church also marks the place where 
St. Paul was buried. But of all the churches that 
form the chief object of the traveler in Italy, St. 
Peter's is the first wonder that he seeks to con- 
template. The double colonnade to the colossal 
peristyle of travertine marble is the grandest in 
the world. 

5 



66 t THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

Jn the middle of the piazza rises the obelisk of 
red granite, which, being without hieroglyphics, 
can only be a Roman imitation of the Egyptian 
obelisk brought over by Caligula. 

The two majestic fountains, that throw up their 
waters on each side of the piazza, worthily com- 
plete its decoration, whether seen by day, when 
the rays of the sun form brilliant rainbows, or at 
night, when the moonlight adds to the whiteness 
of their foaming streams, whose unceasing mur- 
murs inspire and cherish the soul's imaginings. 

The population, the manners of the city, more- 
over, offer a thousand contrasts. It is here on 
this piazza that poor peasants, loaded with their 
baggage, prostrate themselves on this pavement 
of marble, before the altars resplendent with gold 
and precious stones. On entering the edifice they 
kiss the holy door, which profane and thoughtless 
travelers cover with their names, while persons 
of the lower order talk of their affairs before a 
confessional, with their confessor who is inside. 

The interior of St. Peter is rich, ornate, and 
magnificent, rather than tasteful ; but the bad and 
the exaggerated which abounds there, does not 
fail, on the whole, to contribute to the effect, and 
to have a kind of grandeur. 

The bronze statue of St. Peter, whose right 
toe has been worn out by the kisses of the devo- 
tional, was not a Jupiter, as some suppose. Here 
is to be seen the great genius of Michael Angelo 
the immortal cupola, which completes this sub- 



ROME— THE VATICAN 67 

lime creation of architectural grandeur. In this 
edifice the Pope conducts worship twice a year ; 
he is also the visible head of the church and lays 
claims to temporal sovereignity, having State of- 
ficers attached to his court. 

These, and his body of clerical attendants, are 
to be found in his private chapel, where the of- 
fices are performed by his clergy, but in which 
the proper respect is always paid to his holiness, 
both as the pontiff and the sovereign; he occa- 
sionally performs some few of the ecclesiastical 
functions. 

THE VATICAN. 

The Vatican represents the religious grandeur 
of Modern Rome, as the Capitol did the martial 
and triumphant greatness of Ancient Rome. But 
this palace, once noted for its eleven hundred 
rooms — the pontifical court, long so pompous — 
is now all simplicity and moderation, the Pope's 
expenditure barely exceeding that of a President. 
The Vatican no longer thunders ; in our days it is 
nothing more than the most extensive of mu- 
seums, and a curious monument of the architec- 
tural talent of the great artists of the past. Here 
is to be found most of the master paintings of the 
Catholic Church, priceless manuscripts, library 
and statues of Popes. 

OLD ROME. 

Passing through the walled gate, you enter 
Old Rome. What a strange feeling to one as 
you are transferred by thought into the thrilling 



68 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

activities of centuries past. The wall around the 
city is said to be fifteen miles. Here we behold 
the ruins of the golden house in which Nero once 
lived, the houses that required forty thousand 
workmen to build, and who were cruelly put to 
death at its completion by the Emperor as an 
opening- ceremony. Here still remains the street 
wherein the women by Nero's order were so 
shamefully mistreated, and again the abode or 
Catacombs where this tyrant imprisoned the 
Christians; this awful place lies underneath the 
surface and is three stories high. Oh, what a 
dark, dreary and awful chasm. With a small 
taper in hand and by the direction of a faithful 
guide, we traverse its hideous vaults amid the 
bones and dust of those ancient martyrs to the 
faith of Jesus Christ. 

As the eye darts into these dusky chambers of 
death, it catches glimpses of quaint efngies : some 
kneeling in niches, as if in devotion; others 
stretched upon the tombs, with hands piously 
pressed together. In glancing over this scene, so 
strangely populous, yet where every form is so 
still and silent it seems almost as if we were 
treading a mansion of rhat fabled city, where 
every being had been suddenly transmuted into 
stone. 

What a privilege to stand encircled by the 
Seven Hills so famous for its temples, palace? 
and forums, but alas, whose history is buried with 
the past and its noble heroes. 



ROME— THE VATICAN 69 

To-day is one of Rome's holidays, more prop- 
erly known the "Announcement of the Concep- 
tion of the Virgin Mary." All places of business 
are closed, the people have irrespective of condi- 
tion turned themselves loose for a merry time. 
I have seen many rough and gay people, but these 
are the most boisterous set I have ever seen ; they 
are on the streets, in the roads, inns and saloons, 
drinking intoxicants, playing cards and behaving 
as badly as they know how. On visiting another 
church, I believe it is called St. Mary's, we be- 
hold the people descending the steps on their 
hands and knees and placing money on the altar: 
no one departs without kissing" the floor. 

The steps have the legend of being those lead- 
ing from Pilate's temple and the ones which Jesus 
descended after His condemnation. We again 
visited the Cathedral of St. Peter, where we for 
the second time met our party of Bishops and 
ministers. It goes without saying that we were 
more than glad to meet each other again. After 
a pleasant chat we separated. We visited the 
Pope's residence, but were unable to see His Holi- 
ness. Even his own subjects have to procure a 
permit from one of the Cardinals of the church. 
However we very profitably spent our time in ex- 
amining many other features of interest. The 
court is very heavily guarded by soldiers ; they 
are to be seen on every hand. 

The Old Woman was so amazed that she re- 
marked, "I aim uable to see what was the comfort 



70 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

in being a King or a Pope, as they must be in 
danger all the time; they are always so heavily 
guarded." 

Rome at her best is a very dirty city. The 
streets are filthy and the people appear no better, 
either in dress or habits. 

The great mass of people seem to be very poor, 
They are to be seen in great numbers around St. 
Peter's begging for alms. It is surprising to see 
so much poverty around this famous city, where 
everything is Catholic, with her many priests and 
sisters of charity. This will not be wondered at, 
when it is viewed in the light of the great taxa- 
tion that is constantly required by the church to 
keep up her rich appointments. 

Before taking our leave from old Rome, we 
visited the present King's palace, the tomb of 
Pope Pious; beheld the house of one of the ille- 
gitimate daughters of one of the old Popes, which 
for some reason is preserved as a relic, and then 
prepared for our departure for Paris. 

"Rome, a ruin, yet that ruin from its massive 
Walls; palaces and cities, have been reared 
And when Rome falls the world." 



'% ' 





II 



CHAPTER IX. 
I/Otibet's Kingdom. 

And now we are off to France, cozily situated 
in our sleeping- apartment, for which we paid 
twenty dollars and fifty cents. You may judge 
by this the great length of our journey ere we 
reach Paris, our next stopping place. The time 
required in making the trip across the continent 
is one and one-half days and two nights. As 
usual in this part of the country, we have to ride 
under many tunnels, one of which has taken us 
thirty minutes to run its length. 

For several hours along this route we travel 
the banks of the beautiful Mediterranean sea, 
through the cities of Genoa, Turine, and Modane, 
the latter being the terminus of Italy, where again 
we had to undergo the inspection of the custom 
officials. 

The scenery through this part of Italy is much 
different than any we have thus far witnessed. It 
is the great corn belt and the only part of the 
country through which we have passed that we 
have noticed the growth of this product. 

During- this journey an accident happened to a 
strange man who was walking too close to the 
train, He was not killed, but seriously injured. 

France is not now a kingdom in a political sense; it has been and in 
the light under which it now appears and as we have been impressed , 
we thus name or discuss it as such. 



74 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

The train stopped and picked him up, carrying" 
him to the next station, where he was given over 
for medical attention. 

France as an open country is beautiful and in- 
teresting to the traveler. Industry is to be seen 
on every hand among the peasant class. All along 
the road the people were busy working in the 
fields, some plowing, cutting grass, hauling hay, 
in fact engaged in all kinds of farm work, such as 
is common to see in certain parts of the States. 

YVe desired to reach Paris on Sunday morning 
in time for service, but as the train was late, in 
this we were disappointed. 

At 10:40 A. M., Sunday, August the 1 8th, we 
at last arrived in Paris, the city of fashion and 
entertainment. 

We registered at the Hotel London de Xew 
York and were assigned a very comfortable and 
cozy little room. YVe shortly made the acquain- 
tance of a most excellent gentleman and lady, Mr. 
Harbord and wife, whose friendship we found 
to be most congenial and helpful during our stay 
in Paris. With them we made several excursions 
of the city, attended divine services and the like. 

Paris is the world where you can see every- 
thing, and get everything; where all the conven- 
iences of life, and all the means of culture are pro- 
vided. It is a place, too, where those who seek 
for pleasure can readily find it under every form. 

The amount of dissipation in such a city must 
be enormous, and yet it is so regulated and veiled 



J.OU BET'S KINGDOM. 75 

as not to obtrude itself grossly upon the public 
eye. The French in their pleasures are epicures, 
who know how to prolong enjoyment and to 
nourish the capacity for enjoyment to the last 
pulsation of existence. 

Paris wears an air of refinement and cultivation 
which meets you everywhere.. The long, elegant- 
ly built, well paved and clean streets, and par- 
ticularly the wide and airy boulevards which oc- 
cupy the ground of the ancient ramparts demol- 
ished in the reign of Louis XIV., and which were 
once planted with double rows of magnificent 
trees on either side: the splendor of the public 
buildings, and particularly the palaces with their 
extensive gardens adorned with statues ; the tri- 
umphal arches and monumental columns; the 
quays on the Seine giving the appearance of a 
river flowing between massive and smoothly- 
built walls, with frequent wide stone stairs lead- 
ing down to it ; the bridges which connect the 
banks, and the view presented from the'm, up and 
down the river, where, in one direction, are pal- 
aces and gardens, and, in another, tall dwellings 
of various descriptions ; the magnificence of the 
shops — the manners of everybody, from high to 
low — a sort of polish, ease and readiness ; in fine, 
everything, and every person shows the marks of 
the metropolitan city — the imperial city — the city 
of fashion, art and grace. 

The imperial city- — who can believe it republi- 
can? On the public buildings, on the churches. 



THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

are the words Liberie, but the buildings and the 
churches notwithstanding are imperial, and the 
words appear out of place. It makes one smile 
to read them. Stand in the grand entrance of the 
Tuileries, and look up through the wide avenue 
of the gardens to the Palace de la Concorde, 
where stands the obelisk Luxor, and beyond the 
avenue Champs Elysee to the grand arch — a view 
of two miles — and what do you see but imperial 
grandeur ? On every side are soldiers. The vast 
pile stretches right and left — a facade of three 
hundred or more yards. Pass through the main 
entrance to the court of the Tuileries on the east 
side, and here you see the long and gorgeous 
wings of the palace stretching out to meet the 
Louvre, forming an immense square where an 
army can be reviewed, and where Xapoleon was 
wont to review his troops. 

Here too is the arch Triumph, supported by 
eight splendid Corinthian columns, with bases 
and capitals of bronze. The arch is covered with 
representations of Xapoleon's victories. 

Returning to the broad avenue of the Champs 
Elysee, you behold the Arch de l'Etoile — the 
proudest monument erected by Xapoleon; its 
height, one hundred and fifty-two feet ; its breadth, 
one hundred and thirty-seven feet ; its depth, 
sixty-eight feet. Behold it ornamented with 
groups of fig-iues wrought on the surface. There 
is the Genius of AYar summoning the nations to 
"battle, and there they are arming and rushing to- 



LOUBET'S KINGDOM. 77 

gether. There is victory crowning Napoleon ; 
Fame and History are recording his deeds, while 
conquered cities lie at his feet. The battles 0* 
Napoleon, the forms of his generals are there. 
It is a monumental history of his life. You can 
ascend the monument, and then the imperial city 
lies beneath you. 

We attended the Louvre, a museum appro- 
priated to the arts, Greek architecture and Greek 
sculpture and famous paintings by the great mas- 
ters of the brush. 

The Pantheon is a sight most interesting, and 
is consecrated to the memory of the great men of 
France. In its dome is a painting containing 
nearly four thousand square feet, where are rep- 
resented the forms of kings and queens of the 
past. 

Within and without one breathes only princely 
grace and glory. Indeed, Paris is France. 
Notre Dame is its greatest cathedral, the place 
where mouarchs were crowned. It is the West- 
minster Abbey oi' France. In the church of the 
Hotel des Invalicles stands the tomb of Napoleon, 
one of the most magnificent in the world. Every 
way you look, every where you go, all is imper- 
ialism. 

In Paris, how can the people escape from the 
symbols and the pervading presence of mon- 
archy? Whatever they see and converse with, 
seems to predestine them to a monarchy. 

The establishment of our republic was a wide- 



78 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

Jy different affair from creating a republic out of 
a monarchy. Although out of the monarchy of 
England, here there were no ancient signs and 
symbols of monarchy. We were on the virgin 
soil of nature, with the unchartered privileges of 
forests and prairies and rivers. 

All objects around us called us back to natural 
rights, instead of making us feel the weight of 
prescription. We received direct from the liana 
of God what the Old World has received by in- 
heritance, through forms of law, and under the 
protection of ancient authorities. There, govern- 
ment appeared omnipotent ; in the wild woods of 
America God alone appeared omnipotent. There, 
government was the work of former generations, 
and had its roots in the mysteries of the vener- 
able past ; here nothing was old but nature, and 
government had to be planted by our own hands, 
to grow up in our own sight, and to be perfected 
by our own labors. There, society like the cities, 
the roads and the bridges, and the works of art, 
were already made and fashioned, had its grades, 
its moulds of thought, its forms of expression, 
its manners, its laws, all established — all absolute. 

In the Old World, to create a republic is to 
make war upon what the men before us have been 
doing for a thousand years. To create our re- 
public in the New World, was to make war upon 
nothing, but to begin a happy existence under the 
calm sunshine, and in the free air of heaven. 

Thus is to be judged the difference between 



LOUBET'S KINGDOM. 79 

what one sees in a republic of the Eastern and 
Western world, and especially the stamp of im- 
perialism so surprising to the traveler as beheld 
in all the grandeur and magnificence of the repub- 
lic of France, more particularly Paris; here the 
President is the state, the state is Paris, Paris is 
France, and France aims to be Europe. 

The imperial prestige about Paris certainly in- 
creases its interest to a visitor; and in walking- 
through its vast and luxurious domains, he feels 
that the actual presence of royalty is necessary to 
the completeness of the scene. 

The French have many striking and attractive 
points of character. One of these, which every 
one feels at once, is their exceeding polish and 
grace. The educated and well-bred French are 
perfectly agreeable in the ordinary and daily inter- 
course of life. Their manners are easy and nat- 
ural, and equally removed from hauteur and af- 
fectation. You feel entirely at home with them, 
and receive from them a thousand little attentions, 
which are paid out without the least approach to 
condescension, and, indeed, in a way that would 
seem to say that they are obliged to you for per- 
mitting them. 

This courteous disposition prevails among all 
cla>ses, it is found among the shop-keepers, opera- 
tives of all kinds, and the blouses in the street. 
The whole people are pervaded by a spirit of 
politeness. 

Paris is the great Emporium of Fashion. 



80 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

Here the world resorts for modes and shapes. 
Hats, boots, dresses, shawls, coats, pantaloons, 
vests, overalls, cravats — everything that goes to 
fit out the outer man of the man ; the numberless 
and unnameable articles which go to furnish and 
adorn beauty, in spite of the poet that says, "that 
beauty when unadorned is most adorned;" what 
ever makes up the style of life are to be found in 
this gay and lively city. What is here determined 
and adopted at once becomes proper and graceful 
evervwhere. Parisian — what a charm there is in 
that word, how much it expresses, what authority 
it carries with it ; a new style from this great 
center flies through the world like a flash every- 
where, and myriads of hands are set at work copy- 
ing and reproducing, until a whole generation of 
old and young, of grave and gay, receive a new 
appearance with more or less extravag-ance. 

We attended divine service in the Wesleyan 
chapel in company with our newly-made friends, 
it was the first Methodist church we came across 
since leaving London, the service was in English 
and hio-hlv relished bv us. The minister, a o T ave 
and elderly man conducted the same in a most im- 
pressive manner and having concluded that I was 
a clergyman of some Protestant bearing, formed 
my acquaintance and invited me to assist in the 
consecration service of Communion, this promin- 
ence seemed to create much interest among tlu. 
worshippers. At the conclusion of the service the 
minister sought acquaintance with the Old 



LOUBET'S KINGDOM. 81 

Woman and desired that we repair to the parlor 
for conversation, which, however, we were unable 
to accept at this time. 

The prevailing form of religion in this gay city 
of fashion and pleasure is Roman Catholic, which 
liberalizes pleasure with its day of service. 

On entering Paris on Sunday, we found all the 
shops open, and the out-door world was going on 
as usual. In the afternoon ^ome of the shops are 
closed, this is after the hours for religious wor- 
ship. Then the Sabbath is made a day of recrea- 
tion, and the gardens of the Tuilleries, and the 
Champs Elysee, are crowded with people sitting, 
standing or walking about. 

What then is the Sunday in Paris, and what is 
religious worship? The Notre Dame or Made- 
liene. as it is mostly called, in connection with the 
open shops, and the thronged places of amuse- 
ment, represents the religion of the Parisians — ■ 
ceremonial, elegant, magnificent, mingled with 
business, gayety and pleasure. The humble Wes- 
leyan Chapel represents that worship which Christ 
spoke of when He said, "Where two or three are 
gathered together in My name, there am I in the 
midst of them." 

The infidelity which prevailed in France during 
the Revolution was a rebellion of awakened intel- 
lect, unacquainted with the true gospel, against 
the monstrous superstitions, united with priestly 
ambition and sensuality, which were palmed upon 
men as Christianity. That infidelity has never 



82 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

been eradicated; nor can it be until the minds of 
the people are brought in contact with the simple 
Christianity of the Gospel. 

There is one thing which at once strikes an 
American in walking about Paris ; — young 
women of rank — I mean unmarried young women 
— are not met with in the streets, or on the prom- 
enades. He will find, too, that they are not intro- 
duced into society. Their period of education is 
one of of seclusion. The tendency of this is to 
produce a higher refinement of manners and a 
more perfect education. 

The intense activity which characterizes 
Americans appears in every relation of society, 
and causes us to jump to our conclusions and re- 
sults. We are in a hurry to do everything. We 
are in a hurry to be men and women, in a hurry 
to complete our education, in a hurry to get mar- 
ried, in a hurry to get rich, in a hurry to set up 
an establishment, and to plunge into the dissipa- 
tion of society. 

Boys and girls are disappearing from among 
us, the beautiful modesty and innocent pleasures 
of youth are fast becoming a mere legend of the 
past, and our children go out from the nursery 
full-grown men and women. Nothing can correct 
this but a higher culture, creating a higher stan- 
dard of manners and accomplishments. 

A singular and striking street fad, is the respect 
or obeisiance paid the dead : it matters not whether 
one is acquainted with the deceased or not, 



LOUBET'S KINGDOM. 83 

whether they be high or low, rich or poor, every 
passerby is supposed to tip his hat at the funeral 
cortege as it hurriedly nasses by. Such was our 
experience on one of our outings, our guide espied 
the procession approaching, informed us of the 
custom and had us prepared to do the Parsian act. 
To say the least there is a sense of the highest 
respect, if not the greatest moral taught by this 
custom and would not be far drawn if it were 
transferred to the western world. 

One day we met a brown-skinned woman and 
a very black man. we felt that at last we were 
again coming in touch with the race variety with 
which we were the most familiar, while Paris, so 
well stocked with all other types of mankind, was 
none the less lacking for the Negro. 

Another interesting feature during our stay 
here was a visit to the Catholic cemetery in com- 
pany with our friends the Plubords, it is a very 
costly place, magnificent, if such a term is appro- 
priate; extravagance in costliest monuments and 
flowers are to be seen everywhere. 

The monument of a deceased priest was pointed 
out to us, it bears a significant history, they say, 
this priest seduced a young and pretty girl, who 
afterwards entered a convent, the priest and 
espoused latter died and because of the sing-ular 
attachment of these parties in the romance, friends 
interested themselves to the extent of erecting this 
beautiful monument. 

Continuing our drive, we visited the exposition 



84 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

grounds, but little was to be seen of this great ex- 
hibition site which had cost so many millions and 
which so lately had attracted such large con- 
courses of humanity from all parts of the world. 

Having repaired to Cooks' & Sons office to 
register, we were happily surprised to meet 
Bishops Derrick, Arnett and Tanner, also Prof. 
Scarborough and his wife, who were preparing 
for a visit to the continent. In company with the 
party we rode to the Catholic cathedral, among 
the many features of interest we examined the 
statue of one of the bishops of this church, it was 
headless and in his hands he held his head, it is 
said that he was executed, and after his head was 
severed that he reached out with his hands and 
picked it up, I would not vouch for the truthful- 
ness of this legend, every sight of interest is 
marked with some fanciful story wherever found 
in this part of the world. 

Here also is the famous painting of the woman 
who for years masqueraded as a man, was once 
the savior of France in one of the wars of the past, 
and then became powerful in the affairs of the 
church. She was afterwards excommunicated 
and burned for becoming the mother of a child by 
one of the Cardinals, then she was considered a 
witch, now they look upon her as a saint and pay 
her homage. 

After receiving and exchanging calls from the 
Bishops, Drs. Johnson and Beckett and the Scar- 
boroughs, we began to bring our excursionings in 
this thri-lline citv to a close. 



LOUBET'S KINGDOM. 



We drove to the old country line of Paris, be- 
held her ancient arch gate, visited the zoological 
gardens and the old church where the queen was 
tried and condemned for caring for the poor and 
starving', they were penniless and without bread. 
The queen thereupon ordered that if there was no 
bread, then give them cake ; the rich people be- 
came insulted and infuriated and resented their 
affront by the execution of this good woman. 

August the 24th we arranged our baggage, 
settled hotel bill, which was five francs and put off 
for London. 

The Harboards, who by this time had become 
our fast friends, accompanied us to the depot, and 
as they said, regretted very much our departure. 
Our first stop was Rhone, here we crossed the 
beautiful river Siene, thence through a tunnel as 
usual, arriving at Dieppe, we took the steamer 
for New Haven. Our trip across the English 
Channel was very pleasant, a calm was on the 
deep, much to our satisfaction and for the excep- 
tion of the splashing of the waves reached the 
port in safety. Taking the car we arrived at Lon- 
don once more on Saturday night about eight 
o'clock, proceeded to St. Ermine's hotel and again 
became its guest. 

I had seen so much and had so many similiar 
experiences since my first introduction to this 
place of magnificence and extensive journey 
through the continent, that my feelings had un- 
dergone a great change and now the bracing up 



86 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

of the Old Woman was not required as it was on 
my first entry to this place. 

I am sure' my higher spirits and my effort of 
bravery was a thing of much gratification to her. 



CHAPTER X. 
Back in I/ondon. 

On our arrival at St. Ermines 1 we were pleased 
to note that Bishop Gaines and daughter had pre- 
ceded us and would change the monotony of the 
past week, for an association of old acquaint- 
ances. 

We also learned that some of the white Ameri- 
can boarders had, previous to our return, entered 
a protest with the proprietor of the hotel, against 
the Negro tourists, and would leave the hotel 
themselves if the Negro fraternity were not re- 
jected. 

The manly proprietor, who no doubt was free 
from such narrow prejudices, as is boasted of in 
America, very positively but frankly gave these 
sticklers to understand, "That he did not make 
any distinction with his boarders, all he required 
was good behavior and pay for their privileges." 
This put a quietus to the furor, and finding they 
were not in the Southern states of America, our 
white Cousins were no farther heard from on 
this subject. Better that they had learned the 
cosmopolitan bearing of the English atmosphere 
before and such a striking and humiliating lesson 
would not in this instance have been taught them. 

Sunday, August the 25th, in company with 
Bishop Gaines and daughter, we attended morn- 



88 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

ing service at City Roads Chapel, this is the 
church where the Conference sessions are to be 
held. The building is old, plain, but pleasant in 
appearance, many of the furnishings including 
the pulpit, still remain that were used by Wesley 
and his congregation. 

At 3:15 P. M., we went to St. Paul's Episco- 
pal Church and heard a most delightful sermon 
bv the Rector; at 7 P. M., we worshiped at West- 
minister Abbey, returned to our hotel and retired 
for the night. . 

Monday, August the 26th, called at Cooks' 
office, inquired for mail but were disappointed 
in not finding any, we went a shopping, called 
on the tailor and as it began to rain, we entered 
a carriage and returned to our hotel. 

The evening was very pleasantly spent in com- 
pany with Bishop Gaines and daughter. 

August the 29th, Ave visited Wesley's old home, 
it cost us three cents a piece for admission, we 
inspected his bed room and library; it was not 
what I expected to see. There was also a pin 
cushion that had been used by Susan Wesley, the 
pulpit and study-chair, in which Wesley himself 
sat. 

Friday, the 30th, was informed by Bishop 
Gaines, who had received the Recorder, of the 
death of Revs. Nixon and Bryant. The Pastor 
of the Congregational Church during the day, 
paid us a call and arranged with me to preach the 
second Sunday night in September at his church. 
The Old Woman was very poorly in health dur- 



BACK IN J.O.N DON. 91 

ing the night, but improved very much before 
morning. 

Saturday, the 31st, Rev. J. Beckett called on 
us and in company with him, we went to inspect 
the hotel that the Conference Committee had pro- 
vided for the entertainment of the colored dele- 
gates. I was not at all impressed with the ar- 
rangements. 

Returning to our hotel I called on Bishops 
Derrick, Gaines and Arnett ; Rev. Ransom ar- 
rived from Paris this evening. 

Sunday, September the 1st, attended service 
with Prof. Scarborough and wife at City Roads 
Chapel in the morning and at Westminster Ab- 
bey at night, Bishop Gaines preached at this ser- 
vice. The congregation was not so large, but 
the service was excellent, the Bishop made a good 
impression. 

Monday, the 2nd, this is our twenty-seventh 
marriage anniversary. Congratulations were ex- 
tended us from all members of our delegation. 
The Bishops blessed us. Revs. Johnson and 
Beckett paid us a call. The delegates including 
all the Bishops, who have been touring the conti- 
nent have by this time returned to London and 
are preparing for the sessions of the Ecumenical 
Conference. 

Tuesday, the 3d, all the Bishops here visiting 
had their pictures taken to-day on the piazza of 
the hotel St. Ermines. 

Bishop Smith, Prof, and Mrs. Scarborough 



92 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

paid us calls to-day. The various committees of 
the - ...erence are now meeting, therefore re- 
quiring the services of many of our delegates. 
The same is quite a treat, as it helps greatly to 
employ the time and to prevent us from idleness. 

ECUMENICAL CONFERENCE. 

Wednesday, September the 4th, all is astir, 
the great Conference convenes to-day, everybody 
is making ready. Our party, including Bishops 
Derrick, Arnett, Smith, and Prof Scarborough 
and wife, procured an omnibus and rode to the 
Chapel together. The women were provided with 
tickets of admission and were accorded places in 
the gallery. 

The Conference opened with regular Methodist 
religious services. Bishop Arnett occupied a 
place on the platform. Bishop Galloway, of the 
M. E. Church South, preached the opening ser- 
mon, the discourse occupied the time of more 
than an hour for its delivery, but was a grand, 
powerful and masterly effort. No delegate from 
the Western division could help but feel 
proud of such a worthy representative, I am sure 
that the whole Conference were equally elated 
in the possession of such an able divine as the 
product of Methodism. 

Communion was administered to the Confer- 
ence at the close of the sermon, notices were read 
and a recess taken for lunch. 

Lunch was served at the Armory for the con- 
venience of the delegates. I did not think very 



BACK IN LONDON. 93 

much of the service at this time., it became better 
later on, however. 

During this recess the conference gathered in 
the church yard and had their pictures taken. At 
2 o'clock they reassembled, and listened to the 
welcome addresses extended to the Conference. 
Bishop Derrick delivered an address in the morn- 
ing, he was the first of our delegation to enjoy 
this honor and proved himself to be equal to the 
occasion, his speech was a most eloquent and 
powerful one and at its conclusion moved the 
house to the greatest applause. 

Thursday, the 5th, Conference opened at 10 A. 
J\I., many good speeches were made on the floor 
this morning. The Conference thus far is not 
just what I expected it to be. One thing I have 
noticed, the white delegates pay but very little 
attention to their colored brethren. 

Bishop Smith was one of the principle speak- 
ers this morning, also Dr. Mason, of the M. E. 
Church. 

At night a grand reception was given the body, 
every attention was given to make this gathering 
all that could be expected. The delegates looked 
very nice in this their first social. Speeches were 
delivered and after a most pleasant evening all 
retired to their respective quarters. Prof. Scar- 
borough and wife were the other members in our 
party this evening. 

Friday, the 6th, Bishop Derrick again made a 
telling and well received speech on the floor of 



94 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

the Conference this morning. Several of the 
Southern delegates endeavored to make inflam- 
matory speeches, but did not make much of a 
headway at it, their efforts were weakly made and 
sentiment poorly received. 

Prof. Scarborough delivered an address at St. 
James" Hall to-night, but owing to delayed ar- 
rangements at the hotel we were unable to get 
there in time. The papers gave him a very fav- 
orable mention however, as well as others we 
heard speak of him. 

During the evening Bishop Tanner, son, 
daughter-in-law and Mrs. Scarborough were 
guests at our rooms, after a very pleasant so- 
journ all departed to their apartments for the 
night. 

Saturday, the 7th, Bishop Arnett was the pre- 
siding officer of the day- I gave out the morning 
hymn, Dr. Hubbard, our financial secretary, of- 
fered a very fervent prayer as characteristic of 
him, and Bishop Lomax, of the Zion church, read 
the Scriptures, Rev. Beckett sang a solo entitled 
"Saved by Grace." 

During this session the sad and startling news 
was received of the assassination of President 
McKinley. The body was greatly affected. A 
number of speeches were made in sympathy with 
the fallen and the Government of the States. The 
subject of the day was then taken up on "Chris- 
tian Faith," which brought forth some very good 
discussions. Conference adjourned at 12:45 m 
resnect to the memory of President McKinley. 



BACK IN LONDON. 95 

During the afternoon we rode over the Lon- 
don bridge, visiting- the Tower, beheld the beauti- 
ful Thames bedecked with her magnificent flo- 
tilla of ships, and being quite fatigued, returned 
to our hotel, enjoyed an inviting repast and re- 
tired for the night. 

Sunday, the 8th, I had been invited to preach 
at eleven o'clock at the Wesley church at Sidy- 
ham. We took the 9 130 train and after an hour's 
ride reached our point of destination. The at- 
tendance was very large and so pleased were the 
minister and congregation, that we were prevail- 
ed upon to remain over and speak at the nigh 1 ; 
service. This we were unable to do at this time 
as we already had another engagement awaiting 
us in London for the evening hour. Our stay was 
a very pleasant one while here. We took dinner 
with a very wealthy English gentleman and fam- 
ily and were handsomely treated. Before leav- 
ing we were permitted to visit the Crystal Palace, 
a large and beautiful structure all made of glass. 
\Ye arrived in London at 4 P. M., and after re- 
freshments drove to the Congregational church, 
where I endeavored to preach the Word to a 
waiting congregation. It rained all evening, but 
the attendance was large and the service satisfac- 
tory ; the service began at 7 :oo and dismissed at 
8 -.30. Returning to our hotel we retired for the 
night after a hard day's labor for the Lord in .1. 
foreign land. 

Monday, the 9th, the morning session of the 
Conference was interesting but brief. We took 
recess at high noon. 



96 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

The white ladies called a meeting to arrange 
for a missionary gathering on the coming Fri- 
day night, the Old Woman attended. Mrs. 
Bishop Clinton and Airs. Randolph were the 
other colored women present. After the meeting- 
was called to order the arrangement of a pro- 
gramme was considered and Mrs. Clinton was 
assigned to sing a plantation melody. At the 
close of the meeting the Old Woman and Mrs. 
Randolph spoke to Mrs. Clinton about the part 
on the programme given her. They did not think 
the assignment a complimentary one as a repre- 
sentation on their part, and finally agreed to pro- 
test the same at the next meeting. 

At the afternoon session of the Conference 
two papers were read, one by a white delegate 
and the other by Prof. Kealing. The effort of 
the latter was very grand indeed and brought 
forth great applause, even the daily papers the 
following morning spoke in the highest terms of 
praise of his paper ; we all were very proud. 

In the evening a missionary meeting was held 
at St. James' Hall, Bishop Derrick was accorded 
the chair by Bishop Hartzell, of the M. E. 
church, and he presided in an able manner to the 
delight of all. The speeches were very good. 

Tuesday, the TOth, Bishop Tyree and Dr. Hub- 
bard spoke during the morning and made a very 
grand impression as could only be expected of 
them. 

At T2 o'clock the women recalled their meeting 
for a business session. Our three colored women 



BACK IN LONDON. 97 

were on hand, reinforced this time by Mrs. Ma- 
son. During the discussion as to how many 
speakers there should be on the programme and 
as to who they would be, the Old Woman arose 
and objected to the part already assigned the col- 
ored ladies and gave them to understand that 
singing of plantation melodies in this day and 
time was not representation nor effort in mission- 
am 1 work. Of course the committee was much 
surprised at this frankness and began to offer all 
kinds of excuses, but the assault had the desired 
effect and they not only changed this feature from 
the programme, but assigned them a paper to 
read. 

The Old Woman, who seemed bent on having 
their rights recognized or nothing at all, then 
proposed to Mrs. Mason that she present Mrs. 
Clinton to read the paper and that she would 
support her effort, the same carried and the wo- 
men were proud in the victory achieved for their 
proper recognition and to know that if they were 
to take any part at all in this affair of the ladies, 
it would have to be on the basis of equality and 
ability or nothing at all. 

In the evening we were invited to a reception 
given by the Hon. Air. Perks, a member of Parlia- 
ment, at his Kensington Palace garden. The 
affair was the grandest of its kind I have ever 
attended or witnessed in my life. The whole 
lawn was covered with a canvass pavillion of red, 
white and blue; the orchestra was composed en- 
tirelv of ladies dressed in white satin mother- 



98 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.; 

hubbards trimmed with gold braid. The music 
was grand and delightful. The palace contained 
three pianos and was most elegantly furnished, 
while the whole evening's entertainment is be- 
yond words of description. Prof. Scarborough 
and wife accompanied us on this occasion. 

Wednesday, the nth, Bishop Arnett read the 
statistical report of the Methodist churches of 
the world, several corrections were made in it. 
A number of speeches were also made on the dif- 
ferent kinds of societies in the church for the 
young people, the Christian Endeavor, Epworth 
League and Wesley Guilds, were all at length 
discussed and each had their enthusiastic adher- 
ents. Among the speakers was Bishop Walters, 
of the Zion church, who, aside from other things 
said, he liked the Christian Endeavor because it 
had no color line in it. 

At night there was another reception at St. 
James' Hall to extend the welcome greetings of 
the different churches of London to the Confer- 
ence. Bishop Derrick and myself attended to- 
gether. Some of the speeches were very broad 
and eloquent. 

Thursday, the 12th, the Conference was not 
so largely attended, most of the delegates had 
gone to hear the renowned Dr. Parker. I list- 
ened to several of the speeches, and then in com- 
pany with Bishop Lee, went to hear Dr. Parker 
too. I enjoyed his talk very much, it was very 
plain and simple, any body most could have un- 
derstood anything he said. 



BACK IN LONDON. 99 

The subject of discussion at the afternoon':; 
session was "Home training and family prayer," 
it proved very interesting, if not beneficial to all. 

Friday, the 13th, the paper read was on tem- 
perance, the usual discussion followed. A tele- 
gram was read concerning the health of President 
McKinley, which informed us that he was rest- 
.ug some easier. 

In the afternoon the Conference discussed the 
subject of gambling. 

The women held another meeting as a final of 
arrangements for their missionary meeting that 
night. The Old Woman was assigned as repre- 
sentative for all the women in the A. M. E. 
church. 

At the night meeting there were sixteen women 
on the platform, ten of whom were speakers. Mrs. 
Clinton read a paper and sang a solo, but she 
would not sing the plantation melody. 

Saturday, the 14th, a paper was read, subject, 
"The perils of increasing wealth and luxury." It 
was very excellent, but was not discussed. The 
business committee read their report, after which 
the death of President McKinley was announced, 
a sadness was brought over all, and the Confer- 
ence in respect to his memory adjourned until 
Monday. 

In the afternoon in company with Bishops 
Arnett, Smith and the Old Woman we visited 
the British museum with its teeming, and val- 
uable stores of gold and diamond relics bearing 
volumes of history of the past. We visited the 

LefC. 



100 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

Abbey, descended its vaults and looked upon the 
homes of its dead, then to the grand house of 
Parliament where the laws of the great Kingdom 
are enacted, after beholding its splendors, we re- 
turned to our hotel, refreshed ourselves and after 
a pleasant evening's social retired for the night. 

Sunday, the 15th, we took a hackey and drove 
to the Primitive Methodist church where I 
preached to a large and appreciative audience. 
We took dinner with the minister and his family 
and spent a very pleasant stay with them until 
three o'clock in the afternoon. We then attended 
worship at the historic Spurgeon tabernacle. It 
is a very large place of worship ; it is provided 
with two galleries, and as a whole seats a very 
large number of people. The preacher's subject 
was, "The blood saveth from all sin." He spoke 
about seeing and hearing a musical clock in the 
hall of a certain hotel at the end of every half 
hour playing the soul touching tune, "Nothing but 
the Blood of Jesus." After preaching all were 
invited to Communion in the lecture room, while 
others were invited to the after meeting on the 
outside of the church. This service was grand 
)i itself, they sang "Nothing but the Blood of 
Jesus."' It was lovely and when this service was 
closed, many were affected. 

Monday, the 16th, a paper was read, subject. 
"The strength of the pulpit," which was very 
good. It called for quite a number of discussions. 

Tuesday afternoon was arranged as the time 
for memorial services for President McKinlev. 



BACK IN LONDON. 101 

During- the evening Bishop Gaines took very 
sick, his daughter came for me. I had retired, 
but I hurriedly dressed and went to his room, the 
doctor was sent for and soon arrived. After an 
examination he ordered hot water to be kept on 
his stomach, so for the night I was installed as 
a nurse, and as best I knew, with the assistance 
of the Old Woman, accorded every care for the 
relief of our patient. To say the least he was 
much improved by morning, but was unable to 
leave his room. 

Tuesday, the 17th, the subject for the morning- 
was, "Missionary Labor." It was discussed at 
some length. 

At 2 P. M., memorial services were held in 
respect to President Mc'Kinley, the platform was 
nicely draped in black and white, which was 
tastefully set off by a wreath of white flowers. 
Prof. Scarborough and myself procured some 
of the flowers after the service as a memento. 
Two prayers were offered, three hymns were 
sunp- and two speeches delivered. The burial ser- 
vices were read, the dead march played and the 
benediction pronounced at 4:45 P. M., thus ad- 
journing- this remarkable Conference for the next 
ten years. 

In company with Bishops Derrick, Arnett, 
Tvree and Prof. Scarborough, we departed from 
the pleasant scenes of the past few weeks, re- 
paired to our hotel, inquired after the health of 
Bishop Gaines — found him sitting up in bed and 
much improved, prepared for refreshments, en- 



102 THK vSKVEN KINGDOMS. 

joyed the rest of the evening in company with 
several of my colleagues and at a late hour re- 
tired for a much needed rest. 

Wednesday, the 18th, the Conference over, we 
completed our rounds of sight seeing, we went 
to the famous London tower, saw the crown 
jewels, the old prison and the Armory, as well 
as the place where Queen Elizabeth and Lady 
Jane Grey were beheaded. The prison is a dark 
and dreary looking place. Arriving at our hotel, 
Bishop Arnett presented us with tickets which he 
had procured for the memorial services to be held 
at St. Paul's on the following clay. Miss Gaines 
was arranging her father's trunk, Bishop Tanner 
had already taken his departure. Dr. Ransom 
paid us a farewell visit before leaving. This is 
Bishop Lee's birthday, so we are informed ; he 
is sixty years old. 

And now we are preparing to take our leave 
of the dear old continent that for weeks has af- 
forded us so much pleasant entertainment. A 
few weeks ago, we were dreaming of the Old 
World, now we were dreaming of the New : we 
had taken our step one way, now we were about 
to step back again. 

Our emotions were naturally of a mixed char- 
acter. We had not been long enough absent to 
grow tired of traveling. On the contrary, we 
had only increased our taste for it. Many beau- 
tiful parts of Europe remained to be seen. And 
Ave said to ourselves will we ever come back 
again ? 



BACK IN LONDON 103 

Then on the other hand it was pleasant to an- 
ticipate meeting with those from whom we had 
parted weeks ago, and sitting down in our own 
home, to collect our thoughts quietly, and live 
over again, in happy talk, the scenes we had gone 
through. . 

We felt deeply grateful, too, to that kind Pro- 
vidence which had protected and blessed us ; and 
we looked forward with hope to a prosperous 
voyage home. 

Thursday, the 19th, after breakfast, we went 
down to the office and settled our board bill, re- 
turned to our room, fixed our baggage. Prof. 
Scarborough and wife left at 9 130, and we 
shortly followed at 10:45. The proprietor, 
Bishop Gaines and daughter came to the veranda 
and bid us good bye. Our train left London at 
noon, after five hours on the road we arrived at 
Liverpool and registered at the Adelphia Hotel; 
it was near the dinner hour and the orchestra was 
rendering lovely music which was quite cheering 
to us. Without the rain was descending and the 
air was raw and cool. 

The following day, which was Friday, we 
went to the ship's office to see if our tickets were 
correct, did some purchasing for our friends 
whom we knew were waiting us on the other side, 
and returned to our hotel. To our delight we 
found that Bishops Lee, Smith and Arnett had 
arrived. 

On Saturday, the 21st, at 2:45, we made for 
the wharf. We had not been there very long be- 



104 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

fore Bishop Tyree arrived. The ship we sail on 
is the Campania, our room is 96, and very cozy 
for the trip. Thousands of people have gathered 
to see the ship sail from port. At 4 145 our proud 
queen pulled from the shore, it was raining a lit- 
tle and the fog was very heavy. We sat on deck 
until the first call for dinner, it being so very cool, 
we did not return on deck. The Bishops spent 
the rest of the evening in conversation with each 
other. 



CHAPTER XL 
A Storm at Sea. 

Sunday, September the 22(1, this is our first 
day at sea, we arose early, dressed and went on 
deck to see the mail and passengers transfer from 
the mail boat to our steamer. We remained at 
Queenstown three hours. The Irish peasants in 
row-boats came along- side of our ship with many 
different kinds of wares which they offered for 
sale ; one man, woman and girl came aboard with 
their wares, the others sat in their boats, they 
tied the rope to their baskets and threw them on 
board of the ship, thus those desiring to buy had 
but to pull the rope. The Old Woman remarked, 
"What a pity to see white people so poor, es- 
pecially when they have all the chances before 
them." A number of the passengers purchased 
from them and what a dear purchase it was to 
those wretched salesmen, for there was hardly 
one that was not drenched with rain. Our ship 
gave signal for moving and all the rowsmen 
pulled their little crafts away, as it was danger- 
ous for them to remain in the splash of the large 
waves made by our ship. 

At i 130, we lost sight of land for the last time 
for a week; at 11 o'clock religious services were 
held in the dining room, the weather had grown 
worse, the sea was angry, a storm was on. Our 



106 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

party had begun to realize the effects of the storm 
already and were feeling so badly that none felt 
like leaving their seats to venture in. The lunch 
horn sounded at I P. M., but we had not the dis- 
position to go to the table, so we had a light one 
served us on deck; I believe some of our party 
did try the table for a few minutes, but had to 
leave. 

I became so sick that I had to go to bed, I just 
was able to get off my coat and shoes, the others 
had fallen in, in like manner as myself. Bishop 
Arnett took quite sick on deck, the Old Woman 
tried to help him to his room, but feeling so badly 
herself, had to give up the task and call the 
porter. He remained in bed helpless as a baby 
until Monday. He says he tried to get up several 
times but was unable to make it. 

By this time I was feeling the most wretched. 
The Old Woman had weakened at last and was 
brought to my cabin in but a little better condi- 
tion than myself or any of the others. She just 
arrived in time to hold my head, for I had be- 
gun to exhibit my extravagance by throwing 
away all that I had been paying so dearly for, 
and which for some reason would not down. The 
Old Woman had no sooner got me back in bed, 
than completely overcome, she fell in bed unable 
even to undress herself. The Stewardess came 
to assist her but she was so very wretched in feel- 
ings, she could not bear being touched ; she was 
very kind and gave us many attentions during the 
night, for instead of getting better, we grew 



A STORM AT SEA. J 07 

worse. Oh, such a storm, the ship was just rock- 
ing from side to side, the wind blowing and the 
huge waves splashing over the ship as if they 
would crush it at any moment. One felt as if 
the whole ocean would soon rush in at the win- 
dows and doors. We slept but little and prayed 
for morning to come. 

Monday, the 23d, we are too sick to get up, 
nearly every passenger on board is in bed, only 
eight are at the table and I suppose they must be 
old salts, or like the others they too would be 
helpless under covers. Some of the Bishops tried 
to get up during the day. Bishops Lee, Smith and 
Arnett succeeded but the latter had to crawl in 
again. The old Woman, Bishop Tyree and myself 
remained in bed all day, we were very feeble ; all 
we could eat was a little lemonade broth. All 
day the storm in its fury rages and it seems as if 
we will surely die. 

I had another extravagant spell, but had to 
enjoy my wastefulness all alone, the Old Woman 
was too ill herself to assist me. Bishops Lee and 
Smith got to our room to inquire after our health, 
but were quite poorly themselves. The lunch 
horn is blowing but few 7 respond to its call, as few 
can even sit up ; the ship rocks and tosses so much, 
it seems as if we will be dashed out of our beds, 
and we so helpless ; we can't even hold up our 
heads. 

Tuesday, the 24th, the storm is still raging, we 
are too weak to rise, our only diet is a little ice 



*08 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

lemonade. The storm has so increased that no 
one can go on deck at all. All the port holes are 
closed and every one most is in bed. No fresh 
air is now admitted to our cabins, which adds to 
our misery. We had another spell of sea-sickness 
to-day and if they continue it seems as if we will 
die. The lunch horn is blowing for dinner but- 
few are yet prepared for duty. This is the worst 
day for everybody. The sailors are wringing 
wet, they are burdened with duty and are run- 
ning from one side of the ship to the other in the 
performance of their service. One poor unfortu- 
nate sailor was killed to-day; he was clashed by 
one of the waves on the hurricane deck against an 
iron rod and had his head crushed ; he was one 
of the oldest sailors of the crew and one of the 
first to enter commission with this ship. The ac- 
cident happened in the morning and he was bur- 
ied at sea at four in the afternoon. They placed 
him in a coffin, wrapped that in the British flag 
and weighted it with a quantity of lead, a plank 
was lowered to the water's edge, and on this the 
coffin and its mortal contents was pushed into the 
embrace of the lashing and furious waves. A 
few passengers beheld this sad scene, we were 
helpless in bed. They say it was a very sorrow- 
ful sight. The acicdent happened right over oui 
berth. The horn is sounding for lunch, I am 
able to take just a little tea. The sea is still rag- 
ing and darkness draweth near. What will be 
our fate by morning-, the good Providence only 
"knows. 



A STORM AT SEA. U& 

Wednesday, the 25th, 1 am feeling a little bet- 
ter, the Old Woman is just about the same. The 
wind has lulled a little and the sea is somewhat 
calmer. I tried hard and long to get on my 
shoes. I first put on one and then laid down a 
while, and then tried the other. I finally got my 
clothes on, but my head was so giddy, I found 
it quite hard to sit up well, we rang for the stew- 
ard and were assisted on deck once more ; it was 
too wet to remain there long so we retreated to 
the saloon. All day the steward brought us 
blankets and pillows, as we had made the lounges 
our beds, we dreaded so much to go back into the 
close cabins ; the port holes were still closed and 
no fresh air could be admitted. We remained in 
these quarters until 1 A. M., and had fallen into 
a slumber; the storm had again increased and the 
water was coming in at the skylights, the pil- 
lows and blankets on which we were lying were 
wet, while the water already dropping on our heads 
had woke us up. We got up and found that the 
lounges and everything most in the saloon was 
soaked, there was but one remedy, however much 
we hated it, and that was to repair to that sur- 
feiting cabin. We were just able to creep back 
to this dreaded place and fall across our beds. 
One of the lady passengers slept through the 
whole journey in the salon on the wet conch, 
she would not by any entreaty re-enter her room. 
The night wore on and we finally fell asleep and 
for a while our misery was forgotten. 

Thursday, the 26th, we arose about 4 A. M., 



110 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

and dressed as best we could, putting on a piece 
now and then and resting at many intervals. We 
eot to the cabin about six o'clock and had a little 
tea, lemonade and crackers. All the Bishops were 
now up and joined us. Bishop Arnett had to re- 
tire to the saloon, as the wind was too strong for 
him. A greater number of the passengers were 
now able to enter the dining room for their meals. 
Everyone is anxious about the others' health and 
are persuading the Old Woman and myself to eat 
something. It is raining, yet a number are try- 
ing to stay on deck. The lunch horn is blowing" 
and we have decided to eat a little boiled ham and 
toast. 

A strange lady and the Old Woman have made 
friends and are trying to console each other. 
Everything most is wet, the waves have calmed 
to a great extent, however, and I am standing in 
the door of the cabin trying to get a little fresh 
air. 

Bishop Arnett is taking some lunch, but he is 
very feeble and the steward has to help him all 
the while. The ship is becoming more still and 
manageable. This morning the little children 
were in evidence for the first time in several days 
and were trying to make merry with their toys. 
It is dinner time and we are going to try a little 
broth. The water began to come in the cabin 
again, so we had to return to our room. We are 
so tired for the want of a little sleep. The night 
was as frightful as several former ones and we 
were glad for the dawn of the morning light. 



A STORM AT SPA. Ill 

Friday, the 27th, a great improvement is to be 
noticed in all passengers, Bishops Tyree, Lee, 
Arnett and Smith were all able to join us at the 
table for breakfast. The storm is not so fearful 
and many are going on deck for the fresh air. 

Everybody seems to be feeling much better, 
and are to be seen in large numbers at the table 
at meal hours. This is always a good sign. The 
weather is real cold and everybody is wrapped 
in their shawls and coats. There is to be a con- 
cert to-night and several persons are practicing 
for the event. 

The Old Lady and her new made friends, the 
Barkers (wife, husband and son), are having a 
pleasant time talking ; they have been traveling 
since June and live in Chicago. 

We saw two ships to-day, the first since we 
left Queenstown ; one came very close to our ship. 
The afternoon was cloudy and dreary. We at- 
tended the concert at night ; we purchased a pro- 
gramme and enjoyed the amusements from the 
music room. It was over by eleven and we re- 
tired to our room for the night, enjoying the best 
rest that was ours since leaving Liverpool. 

Saturday, the 28th, arose at four and arrived 
at quarantine at 6 A. M., and to our delight saw 
a pretty sun rise for the first time in a week. Mail 
was exchanged and the quarantine doctor came 
aboard. As there was a case of small-pox re- 
ported the quarantine boat took him in charge 
and sent him to the hospital ; he did not look like 
he had the disease any more than anv of the oth- 



112 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

ers and in my Judgment it was a bad case of sea- 
sickness more than any thing else. It was re- 
ported we would have to remain out in the harbor 
for twenty-four hours on account of this affair, 
but after the sick man was removed, our ship 
raised anchor and we started for dock. 

We were much impressed with our first sight 
of Sandy Hook and its flash light, as it appeared 
to us in the early morning, it looked like streaks 
of lightning out of a dark cloud, it was the first 
sight that met our gaze as we stepped out upon 
the deck in the morning, it made me think of one 
of the Sankey hymns, "Let the Lower Lights be 
Burning." 

Everybody aboard was rejoicing when we 
raised anchor and started for the wharf. We were 
somewhat late and a great number of friends had 
been waiting since eight o'clock for our arrival, 
it was i o'clock when we reached the dock. The 
people on the ship started to tell those on the 
wharf what a terrible time we had at sea long be- 
fore we were fast at anchor. Some of the pas- 
sengers whistled, hollowed, waved handker- 
chiefs and flags, everyone was lively and gay as 
if they had forgotten their awful past experi- 
ence. 

A number were made very vexed by the custom 
officials, in the way they handled some of the bag- 
gage, many were treated shamefully, everything 
was turned upside down. We got off with our 
baggage in very good shape. A man that had 



A STORM AT SEA. 113 

some respect for people inspected and handled 
ours; he just opened our luggage and told us to 
shut them up again. He did not move an article. 
It is such an excitement at the custom house here. 
I think it worse in New York than any place we 
have been. They did Bishop Arnett badly. He 
had purchased a silk dress for his wife, which 
had cost fifty-nine dollars, they made him pay 
a duty of thirty-five on it. Bishop Tyree had 
purchased one for his wife for thirty-five dollars 
and he had to pay a duty of thirteen dollars and 
seventy-five cents. It was a shame they were 
treated so. We were glad to get off so easy our- 
selves. 

Through the custom house we hurried to a 
carriage and were soon comfortably situated in 
pleasant appartments at the Hotel Vendome, on 
the corner of Broadway and Forty-first street. 
After sending dispatches to Charleston and Bal- 
timore we sat down for rest and prepared for the 
services which we intended attending Sunday. 

Sunday, the 29th, we spent in New York and 
Brooklyn. In the morning I preached at Bridee 
Street A. M. E. church and at night attended z 
platform meeting at Bethel. 

Monday we started for Baltimore and were 
met at the train by Dr. Beckett. We spent a visit 
of two days here with our many friends, Avho 
very cordially welcomed us home. Thursday we 
started for Charleston and reached the city of 
our home at 4 :3c Rev. J. S. Morant met us at 
the depot, escorted us to a carriage and soon we 



114 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.! 

were in the embrace of mother and seated at a 
warm delicious breakfast prepared by Eliza. 

The other day we were in London, and here 
we were in Charleston again. Every object looked 
jnst as we had left it. We almost doubted 
whether we had been away. Then, when we drove 
up to our own door, we found all safe, nothing 
had happened. The door opens — all are wed. 
Here is my library; here is the chair in which I 
am wont to sit. It is the old, pleasant home still. 
We have stepped back again and so our journey 
was ended. 



"^"tr^ 



ELEMENTS OF PULPIT EFFECTIVENESS 

DELIVERED AT THE ECUMENICAL CONFERENCE, 
LONDON. 

The history of pulpit effectiveness has not been 
a continuous progress, it has had its time of decay 
and revival. Now it has appeared as though every 
age has possessed it, and like an undisputed king, 
it has been received and crowned with a blessing 
to the generations. 

Again it has languished in force and character, 
living only by the effort of struggle on the part of 
its representatives. In the time of the Apostles its 
march was a triumph. Ere the last of them fell 
asleep beneath the purple sky of Ephesus, it had 
moved and subdued the most considerable citadels 
of the world, and every thing seemed fair and 
promising for the speedy conversion of men 
through the efforts of a consecrated pulpit. 

Through the dreary ages succeeding, the effec- 
tiveness of this light shone more dimly, until, like 
the torches of a funeral, it shone only on the 
mourners of the dead. 

The pulpit became formal, ambition seized 
upon the truth, zeal became stultified and estab- 
lished upon its possession a vast ecclesiastical 
power; thus the Popery of Rome overlaid the 
Gospel ennunciation of Paul. 



110 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

The church was weary for the light, there came 
a season of revival, the chains of stereotype meth- 
ods and symbols were forged. Luther and Wick- 
liffe, joined by another mighty host of pulpit 
patriots, like Whitfield, Knox, Calvin, Wesley, 
Allen and others, endowed with the spirit of the 
Apostles ; marshaled forth and with their holy 
zeal, put life into the truth they preached, like 
unto that established by the struggles of the first. 

With inspiration at this hour, I draw a reflec- 
tion from the memories, — immortal — of these ex- 
alted characters, their faith, power, and char- 
acter, that is worthy of emulation in this day of 
our trial, development and progress. \ 

I have thought, very carefully too, that what we 
need most, is to come back to the old land mark 

We must have Christ in the heart, as well as 
education in the head. I believe that Air. Wesley, 
when he preached years ago in that pulpit, had an 
educated head, a converted heart, and a pious 
life. Neither of these qualities, alone, but united 
and inseparable, will the standard attained by the 
Fathers be realized by the ministry of to-day. 

I do not believe in Apostolic succession, I be- 
lieve in Wesleyan succession. Air. Wesley con- 
secrated Mr. Asbury, he laid his great hands on 
the bishops of the Methodist Episcopal Church : 
among them was Richard Allen, who followed 
Air. Asbury and caught his inspiration. He may 
not have had all the education required then, but 
he had a converted heart and a pious life. From 



ELEMENTS OF PULPIT EFFECTIVENESS 117 

him our church started. To-day, as Negro Meth- 
odists, we are educating the head, and seeing that 
the heart is converted, and that the man's life is 
a pious one, before he preaches the Gospel of the 
Lord Jesus Christ among us. 

With a high degree of pride can we point to 
our Wilber force College, which is preparing men 
to preach the Gospel of the risen Savior. We have 
in the grand and great "Lone Star State" of 
Texas, Paul Quinn College, which is polishing 
and preparing the young Negro to preach the 
Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ, and at the same 
time seeing that his heart is converted and that 
his life is a pious one. We have in the greatest 
State in the world — there is no State to surpass 
it, as far as I know — the State of South Carolina, 
our Allen University. It is great because it gave 
the church an Andrews, it gave the Methodist 
Church a Capers, who first sowed the seed of 
righteousness among the Negroes of that State, 
and it lit a torch of righteousness in that State; 
and around this fire the Negro to-day is warming 
himself over the blaze of Methodism and Chris- 
tian piety. We have in Georgia, the Empire 
State, our Morris Brown College, and from this 
college we are sending men, educated, with con- 
verted hearts, and of pious lives. I am glad to 
inform you, as a member of that race, that we are 
preaching the whole Jesus, a living Christ, and a 
pure Gospel. I think, again, that what we want, 
as Christian ministers, is more piety. We want 



US THE SfcCVEN KINGDOMS. 

our pulpits clean, pure and good. We want our 
pulpits filled with men whose lips are pure, and 
whose lives are lives of Christian piety. We want 
them, when they go into the pulpit, to lift up the 
cross of Christ, and to be filled with the Holy 
Ghost, and we want to do, like John Wesley used 
to do, namely, spend hours in our closets pre- 
paring to unfold the sacred mysteries of the Lord 
to the dying world. 

My prayer is this morning that we may all go 
from this Ecumenical Conference full of God, full 
of Christ, and full of the Holy Ghost, and I pray 
that the Wesleyan spirit may fall on us all as we 
look back with faith, through the eye of the 
imagination, see Wesley there, with his open arms 
pronouncing the Apostolic Benediction ; that the 
Holy Ghost may fall on each of us and that we 
may go to our homes with the torch burning 
brightly, living and preaching the whole Christ. 

("Amen.") 



^^nr^^ 



THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE CHRIS- 
TIAN CHURCH. 

PREACHED AT THE WESTMINSTER CHAPEL — LON- 
DON, ENGLAND, SEPT. 1ST, I9OI. 

Mi cah 4:1, 2. 

"But in the last days it shall come to pass, that 
the mountain of the house of the Lord shall be 
established in the top of the mountains, and it 
shall be exalted above the hills, and the people 
shall flow unto it. 

"And many nations shall come and say, Come, 
and let us go up to the mountain of the Lord and 
to the house of the God of Jacob ; and he will 
teach us of his ways, and we will walk in his 
paths ; for the law shall go forth of Zion, and 
the word of the Lord from Jersusalem." 

Theme. 

The universality of the Christian Church and 
the spread of the Gospel through the labor of mis- 
sionaries. 

I. "The Church rendered conspicuous to all." 

It is scarcely necessary to observe that such 
phrases as the "'mountain of the Lord's house" 
and "Zion" signify in such connection as the pres- 
ent — the Church of God. 

The visible Church has, from its beginning, al- 
ways had an existence; but its boundaries have 



120 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

generally been very limited, and its situation has 
often been very obscure. The mere mention of 
Abel, Scth, Enoch, Abraham, and his seed; Zion, 
Jerusalem and Judea will illustrate this fact. 
Its limits were greatly extended during the days 
of the Apostles (notably among these Paul's Mis- 
sionary Journeys) and during some subsequent 
years. But since those days, until very recently, 
how often all that deserves the name of Church 
has been confined to a small space ; and hidden, as 
in a corner! Now in this land and then in that; 
but no matter how adverse the circumstances, how 
relentless the persecutions, the time will come 
when the Church shall be conspicuous to all, as on 
the top of the mountain. She shall be so circum- 
stanced, — so situated that all that may shall 
behold her. Philosophy. Idolatry, Supersti- 
tion and Error shall no longer obstruct 
her view or obscure her glory. The Bible, 
the Savior, and His followers shall then no 
more be contemned. Zion shall be generally 
recognized by all ; her sovereignty recognized, 
her laws honored, her goodness regarded, her 
greatness revered, her ordinances attended, Zion 
shall be praised in all the earth. She shall be es- 
tablished. How has the Church been tossed as by 
tempests ! Convulsed as by commotions, driven 
hither and yon as by the conflicting spiral evolu- 
tions of the cyclone. (But like the house upon 
the rock), being thus established, no longer shall 
persecutions general or partial oppress her; no 



THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 121 

longer shall the arm of human power disturb her; 
no longer shall she be driven in her doctrines 
or her members from one land to another by 
popes, by councils, by ungodly sovereigns, or by 
any other hostile power ; for the Highest himself 
shall establish her ! Amid these favorable cir- 
cumstances there shall be a disposition in all 
toward the Church ! As yet, a few in a nation, in 
a town, in a village, a few in a family, or at most, 
a nation partially have moved toward Zion, like 
small and solitary streams. But at the fulfillment 
of this promise — Behold nations, all nations mov- 
ing in masses, such masses as may be compared 
to rivers deep and wide, and they all flow, move 
onward to Zion as rivers to the ocean. 

Their movements shall be characterised by 
friendly co-operation. Many people shall go and 
say, "Come ye, and let us go!" All, every one. 
"'Ho every one that thirsteth," etc., etc. A gen- 
eral invitation. 

"Let us go up to the house of the God of Jacob. 
He will teach us his ways." They own their 
ignorance, and seek to be taught. They have 
confidence in his goodness and ability. "He will 
teach us." 

What religion but Christianity! What God 
but our God tea dies! We will walk in his paths, 
we will believe his doctrines ; we will obey his pre- 
cepts ; not those of men, or of corrupt nature. 

For out of Zion shall go the law and the word 
of the Lord from Jerusalem. All nations have 



122 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

had their laws, (some iniquities enough, heaven 
knows!) All legislatures have had their words. 
But the Law, the law suited indiscriminately to 
all lauds, to all peope, to all classes of men, is the 
laze out of Ziou, the Gospel. It has never been 
found unsuitable to any people, and has ever en- 
nobled all who received it. It is from Zion, from 
Jerusalem, from the Church, the Bible that un- 
adulterated truth proceeds. Heathens no longer 
bow down to wood and stone, etc., etc. 

The Law. The word literally went out from 
Jerusalem. After the Pentecost they spoke with 
cloven tongues, Acts 2. 

III. The blessing resulting" from these circum- 
stances ; "He shall judge among the nations, 
and shall rebuke manv people," etc. While 
men judged, after the sight of their eyes, 
and the hearing of their ears, nations 
quarrelled with nations, and man with man. But 
at the period here referred to, taught from above, 
they generally own the authority of God, ac- 
knowledge his right to judge, and submit to his 
laws. Those that do not he will rebuke ; will 
teach by severe methods, such as will not yield to 
milder means ; until all submitting to the "Prince 
of Peace," "They shall beat their swords," etc. 

The Jews too long cast off on account of their 
wickedness and obstinancy shall no longer wander 
in the mazes of error, and amidst darkness that 
may be felt; but listening to the voice of the 
prophet or to some Christian teachers, or to some 



THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH 123 

divine suggestion which inspires them with dispo- 
sitions of obedience and of reciprocal good will, 
they shall acknowledge Christ as the light of the 
world, and thus the house of Jacob too shall come 
and walk in the light of the Lord. 

IV. The period of these great events. 
"It shall come to pass in the last days." 

The Church of God has had her days, and these 
days have been somewhat commensurate with the 
progress of time, and with the limited or more ex- 
tended population of the earth. 

The day of the patriarchal church was a day 
of comparatively small things, when the people 
of God were few in number ; yea ! very few. 
i Chron. 16:19. "When ye were but few, even 
a few, and strangers in it." 

The Jewish Church had her day — a day of 
many years during which the boundaries of Zion 
were enlarged. But the patriarchs and prophets 
spoke of another day — of other days which they 
called the last days. To these days our text re- 
fers and the New Testament makes it plain what 
these days are. (See" Acts 2:17.) 

"And it shall come to pass in the last days, saith 
God, I will pour out my spirit upon all flesh ; and 
your sons and your daughters shall prophesy, and 
your young men shall see visions, and your old 
men shall dream dreams." 

Heb. 1 :i, 2. "God who at sundry times and in 
divers manners spake in time past unto the fathers 
by the prophets, hath in these last days spoken 
unto us by his Son." 



124 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

i Peter i :20. "Who verily was foreordained 
before the formation of the world, but was mani- 
fest in these last times for you." 

That they are days of the Messiah — of his 
gospel, and of his Holy Spirit; days, that should 
be followed by no other day, and therefore called 
"the last days:' Hence the Comforter is 
promised as one that should abide forever. John 
xvi, 1 6. 

It is sufficiently evident then that the prophet 
referred this great event to the days of the gospel. 
And as such a day as he describes has not yet 
fully opened upon us, we can consider ourselves 
as only verging towards it. 

Humanly speaking, God's days are long ones, 
even as a thousand years. 

Two of these have nearly elapsed since the 
commencement of the last days ; and the time 
spoken of may therefore be at hand, and the signs 
of the time bespeak its approach. This we know ! 
"It shall come to pass," for the mouth of the Lord 
hath spoken it. 

Let this prophecy cheer all whose spirits have 
drooped on account of the few who have hitherto 
embraced real Christianity. We might multiply 
passages for our encouragement. Jesus says, 
"The gospel of this Kingdom shall be preached to 
all," etc. Again his word of promise is, "He 
shall have dominion from sea to sea, and from the 
river to the end," etc. 

There is not, nor can be, any question as to the 



THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 125 

ultimate triumph of Christianity, we are some- 
times disposed to become impatient and expect re- 
sults not at all commensurate with the labor per- 
formed. Do we not here see history repeating it- 
self. 

Do we not see this Church of ours like the 
patriarchal church for a period of about seventy 
years when her limits were circumscribed and her 
borders extended only to the River, but treading 
hard on the heels of the triumphal armies came 
the host of God's messengers spreading the joyful 
tidings of the Savior of mankind, till every valley, 
hill and dale responds to the tune of "Old Hun- 
dred," and the banner of the Lord Jesus proudly 
floats to every breeze nor have we been content 
with this; but the islands of the sea, and the con- 
tinent of our fore-fathers are learning how blest 
the name of Jesus is. The gospel of the Son of 
God is penetrating to the darkest nook, and zone, 
and heathens are no longer bowing to wood and 
stone, but are looking to Jesus who was made a 
little lower than the angels, for the suffering of 
death crowned with glory of honor. Let this hope 
excite us to renewed exertions in rendering 
divine truth conspicuous to all. 

Let it call forth the deepest gratitude of all wh< > 
already participate the blessings of redemption. 
And soon our song shall be hallelujah for the 
Lord God Omnipotent reigneth. 

Having taken a cursory or superficial view of 
the work of the Church generally, may I be par- 



126 THE SEVEN' KINGDOMS. 

doned if I speak briefly on the especial work of 
the African Methodist Episcopal Church. 

I bow in reverence before the shrines of our de- 
parted ones ; the pioneers, the founders, the fath- 
ers of our grand organization, men imbued with 
and inspired by the spirit of the living God, who 
built wiser, deeper, stronger, and broader than 
they knew ; upon whose substantial foundation 
four generations have already stood and acknowl- 
edge the supremacy of God. 

Little dreamt the Spartan band, who first un- 
furled the banner of African Methodism, that ere 
a century had rolled away, if indeed it lasted that 
long, that every nook and dale, every hillside and 
valley, every mountain and plain from the 
Rockies to the Bay ; from the rivers to the Gulf, 
stretching its giant arms and embracing two con- 
tinents, while the islands of the sea, nestle at its 
feet, and learn of Jesus. 

But her mission is not alone to teach of Jesus. 
By far the most important work is to bring men 
to Christ, but akin to that has been to teach the 
moral manhood of Man, and the moral woman- 
hood in woman ; emerging as the masses were, 
from the thralldom and depravity of human 
bondage, no wonder it has been alleged, that our 
progress has been slow, but we have obtained help 
from God and the result is plainly seen, in the 
countless happy homes and model families that go 
to make up a race of which to-day we are proud, 
a race destined to become, (despite the crackings 



THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH 127 

of all who may attempt to decry the possibilities 
of the race) an important factor in the intellectual, 
the professional, the commercial, the scientific, as 
well as the religious world. This is not only 
largely, but almost solely, due to the untram- 
meled freedom, influence, and exercise of thought 
taught by, and within the pales of the African 
Methodist Episcopal Church. 

No longer does emotional or sensationalism 
characterize our worship, but a deep-seated rever- 
ence for God, and a harmonious breathing 
of the Holy Spirit pervades the hearts of his 
people. This we trust will continue, the nations 
shall recount God's marvels and Zion sing his 
praises. 



^-» 



IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 

PREACHED AT PRIMITIVE METHODIST CHAPEL 
LONDON, ENGLAND, SEPTEMBER I5TH, I9OI. 

"Lo! I am with you always." — Matt. 28:20. 

Mutability is written on all human affairs — 
everything is liable to changes. Decay and deso- 
lation mark the ravages of time. 

Along the mountain slope time and atmospheric 
changes have furrowed its brow and left a rugged 
and barren waste where vegetation once spread 
her luxuriant mantle. 

Hie earth with its undulating surface con- 
vinces the students of geology that the upheavals 
of nature are marked by the changes of old 
Father Time. Look above you ! Look around 
you ! Look beneath you, and realize if you can 
the changes, geological, meteorlogical and nat- 
ural, that have occurred since God spake the 
world into existence. 

The divine historian, lost in wonder and amaze- 
ment, wrapt in solitude amid the rocky clefts and 
arid deserts of Midian, contemplating the omni- 
potence of a beneficient God and the mysterious 
working of his providential dispensations for the 
benefit of his creatures, exclaims : "In the be- 
ginning God created the heaven and the earth !" 

"If we work upon marble, it will crumble and 
decay; if we work upon brass, it will fade away 



IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. V2VI 

and perish, and if we work upon immortal souls, 
it will remain imperishable forever." 

Whatever enterprise we engage in, it is equally 
rational and just duly to consider the general 
merits of its character and the probable results of 
its issue. This is more especially the case when 
we embark in any cause which is likely to involve 
the most interesting and important consequences. 

This is unquestionably the character of re- 
ligion; which is the one thing needful to every 
human being. In making choice, therefore, of 
this momentous subject, we should first count the 
cost, then willingly renounce everything which is 
incompatible with its possession; or it is impos- 
sible to realize its personal benefits 

"In the world," said Jesus to his disciples, "ye 
shall have tribulation;'' this he clearly foresaw 
would be the case from the spirit engendered by 
all false religions and from the manner in which 
his own, (so far as it should be plainly, faithfully, 
and perseveringly published and exemplified) 
would expose and condemn them and the practices 
which they countenanced. 

Persecution commonly defeats its own object. 
Persecutors have aimed at the total overthrow of 
Christianity and the irreparable ruin of its advo- 
cates. 

But God counteracts the designs of his enemies 
and makes the wrath of men and devils turn to 
his praise. 

"Angels and men before him fall. 
And devils fear and fly." 



130 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

When he sent forth the seventy, they returned 
again with joy, exclaiming: "Lord, even devils 
are subject to us through thy name." This might 
have been a pardonable ebullition of feeling on 
their part, possibly on account of the unparalleled 
successes attendant upon their labors. But the 
Master kindly rebukes them and says : "Rejoice 
not that the spirits are subject unto you, but 
rather rejoice because your names are written in 
heaven." — Luke 10:17-20. 

Our Saviour had fulfilled his mission on earth ; 
he had performed the work he came to do ; he had 
given his charge thrice repeated to his now truly 
converted and zealous Peter — to feed his sheep ; 
feed his lambs ! He had repeatedly warned them 
to go not into any city of the Samaritans. 

But now he was going to take his leave ; he was 
going away from them to prepare a place where 
he would finally gather together all his faithful 
ones. 

They were disposed to mourn at his departure 
and lament at his final going away from them. 
He says to them : "It is expedient that I go away, 
etc." "I am going to prepare a place for you, 
etc.'' "In my Father's house are many mansions, 
etc." I have been a Comforter to vou while I 
was with you, but now I am going away from 
you, but I will not leave you comfortless. "I 
will pray the Father and he shall give you another 
Comforter that he may abide with you forever.'' 
— John 14:16. "The Comforter, which is the 



IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 131 

Holy Ghost, whorn the Father will send in my 
name, he shall teach you all things and bring all 
things to your remembrance whatsoever I have 
said unto you." — John 14:26. "Remember T 
said unto you, in this world ye shall have tribula- 
tion. But be of good cheer ; I have overcome the 
world." 

How their hearts must have burned within 
them as he unfolded to them the Scripture, en- 
lightened their dark understanding and said to 
them : Thus it behooved Christ to suffer and to 
rise from the dead the third day that repentance 
and remission of sins should be preached in his 
name among all nations. 

"Hitherto while I was with you, I forbade you 
going into any city of the Samaritans." 

But now I am about to enlarge your field of 
operation. T therefore now command you: "Go 
ye into all the world and preach the gospel to 
every creature/' Knowing that tribulation and 
distress await you on every side, tarry ye at Jeru- 
salem until ye be endued with the Holy Ghost. 
Then as ye go forth in the Master's vineyard re- 
member : 

1 st. AS DISCIPLES OF THE LORD 
JESUS YOU WILL BE EXPOSED TO DIS- 
TRESSING AND PERILOUS CIRCUM- 
STANCES. 

This will continue to be the case with all those 
who consistently profess and are zealously em- 



>. 



J32 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

ploved in propagating the religion of the Lord 
Jesus Christ. 

But if the disciples of the Lord Jesus in general 
suffer on these accounts, you my brethren, will 
suffer much more on account of the same things. 

But in addition to these distressing circum- 
stances, the condition of the saints is rendered 
more dangerous by the efforts of the Evil One to 
sow and propagate the growth of tares with the 
good seed; or in other words, to suggest to the 
proud, enthusiastic, and corrupt men, such senti- 
ments and practices as may tend to subvert the 
understanding, the faith, and the purity of God's 
people (among these we may notice) the Unfaith- 
ful Hearers, such as feel a pleasure in attending 
the ministry of the Word ; their passions are af- 
fected ; the understanding enlightened, and they 
form purposes for the amendment of life, but the 
impression is momentary. Such are "like unto 
a man beholding his natural face in a glass ; for 
he beholdeth himself and goeth his way and 
straightway forgetteth what manner of man he 
was." Jas. i .23-24. Or though the effect ma}' 
not be quite so transient, yet there is no decision 
of character. They hear the word ; they weep 
under it ; they abandon certain vices, and their 
whole conduct for a season gives birth to a pleas- 
ing hope that they will become distinguished for 
piety. But alas! they are unfaithful. 

Another class is the Transient Reformers — 
those who under providential visitations have de- 



IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 133 

termined to mend their ways and live for God, 
but afterwards have relapsed into sin. 

These characters are too numerous to mention. 
Some in season of imminent danger have cried 
unto the Lord in their distress and solemnly 
vowed if he would deliver them, they would serve 
him ; but no sooner has the sea become calm ; the 
storm subsided ; the fever fled ; the danger passed 
away, than thev become as wicked as ever. Or 
perhaps, it was the loss of a friend, a wife, a hus- 
band, a mother, a father, a brother, a sister, a 
son or a daughter which led them to consider 
their latter end ; but no sooner had Nature dried 
her tears, the grief assuaged than they relapse 
into the characters here portrayed. 

Another class you will have to contend with, 
my brethren, are Inconstant Professors; these 
go further than those I have named. For 
they attend regularly the ordinances of God's 
house, take up their cross to follow Christ, enroll 
themselves with his disciples, profess to be saved 
through faith in his blood, and zealously espouse 
the cause of God. 

But through unwatchfulness and a neglect of 
Christian exercises, their piety degenerates, their 
affections become cold, a longing desire for retire- 
ment is no longer felt. Christian communion loses 
its wonted sweetness; the word preached, its 
pathos is no longer food for the soul ; at length 
they have recourse to the fatal expedient of 
abandoning religion altogether. 



134 TIIK ShVHN KINGDOMS. 

But that which carries the danger of the saint 
to its highest point is the effort, the unwearied 
effort of the enemy so to operate on the remaining 
corruption of their nature, or so to press on their 
weakest graces as either by allurement or dis- 
couragement to turn them out of the way ; or else 
by lifting them up by the pride of their attain- 
ments and performances to sink them into his 
own condemnation. 

By such means are the disciples of the Lord 
Jesus tried and endangered ; and by these very 
means have many in every age been destroyed. 

My brethren, preach the Word ; hold up a 
bleeding Saviour ; a pure Christ ; a clean Jesus ! 
It is steep climbing to the stars. Lay aside rhe- 
torical flourishes; well-rounded flights, and 
learned dissertations. Preach Christ in his offices 
— Prophet, Priest and King — 

"Preach him to all and cry in death 
Behold! Behold the Lamb!" 

But when beset and completely surrounded 
with more than ordinary distresses, especially, 
when you are marked out as the butt for ridicule 
for the enemies of the Cross of Christ to shoot at ; 
the Rock which the furious waves of tribulation 
are to lash ; the Tree of Righteousness on which 
the storms of temptation are to expend themselves ; 
when the turbulent billows are about to roll over 
your frail barques; in the dark hour of deepest dis- 
tress amid the midnight gloom, above the raging 
of the storm, the fierce voice of the tempest, the 



IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 135 

vivid flashes of the lightning, the deafening roar 
of retreating thunder — above it all — hear the 
voice of Jesus whispering to your soul, 
"Lo ! I am with you alway." 

2d. Remember this promise is based upon con- 
scientiously performing those duties which arise 
from our relation to God as his Servants, his 
Stezeards, his Soldiers. 

As his covenant servants, we must devote our- 
selves to his service. Jer. 1:5. "I have sancti- 
fied thee and ordained thee a prophet unto the 
nations." 1 Cor. 4:19, 20. "For the kingdom 
of God is not in word but in power." 

As his stewards, we must employ his gifts for 
his glory. 1 Peter 4:10, 1 1. "As every man has 
received the gifts, even so minister the same one 
to another as good stewards of the manifold grace 
of God. If any man speak, let him speak as the 
oracle of God. If any man minister, let him do it 
as of the ability which God giveth, that God in all 
things may be glorified through Jesus Christ to 
whom be praise and dominion forever and ever, 
Amen. 

As his soldiers, we must be valiant for his re- 
vealed truth. Jer. 9 13. "They are not valiant 
for the truth, they proceed from evil to evil; and 
they know not me, saith the Lord.'' 

As his soldiers, we must courageously defend 
the truth against all hostile attacks. Eph. 6:10-16. 
"Put on the whole armor, etc." 

We must endeavor to extend the knowledge 



136 THE SEVEN KINGDOMS. 

of God in the world. Psa. 67 \i. "That this may 
be known upon the earth, his saving- health among 
all nations. Mark 16:15. ''Go ye into all the 
world and preach the gospel to every creature." 

As his soldiers, like Moses, we must not suffer 
the allurements of this world to entice us from our 
allegiance to God. Heb. 1 1 '.24.-26. "Esteeming 
the reproach of Christ greater riches than the 
treasures in- Egypt ; for he had respect unto the 
recompense of the reward." Like Job, we must 
remain unwearied in God's service and patiently 
wait for his reward. Job 14:14. "All the days 
of my appointed time will I wait until my change 
comes." Heb. 10:36. "Exercise patience that 
after ye have done the will of God, ye might re- 
ceive the promise." 

YVe should realize God's presence with us as 
our Master, Helper, and Observer. 

Psa. 16:8. "Set the Lord always before thee; 
put him at thy right hand." Psa. 46:1. "God is 
our refuge and strength, a very present help in 
trouble." 'Heb. n \2~. "By faith he endured as 
seeing Him who is invisible." 

We should realize the glory promised to all 
faithful followers of Christ — comprising a glor- 
ious rest. Rev. 14:13. "Write blessed are the 
dead which die in the Lord from henceforth. 
Yea. saith the Spirit, They rest from their labors 
and their works do follow them." 

A Glorious Inheritance. 1 Pet. 3 :5- "Blessed 
be the God and Father of our Lord Tesus Christ 



IMMUTABILILY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 130 

which according to his abundant mercy hath be- 
gotten us into a lively hope by the resurrection of 
Jesus Christ from the dead. To an inheritance 
incorruptible and undefiled that fadeth not away 
— reserved in heaven for you. Who are kept by 
the power of God through faith unto salvation." 

A Glorious Throne. Rev. 3:21. "To him 
that overcometh will I grant to sit with me on my 
throne, even as I have also overcome and am set 
down with my Father on his throne." 

A Glorious Crown. "The devil may cast some 
of you into prison. Ye shall have tribulation. 
But be thou faithful unto death, and I will give 
you a crown of life." 

A Glorious Happiness. Matt. 25:21. "The 
Master will say unto thee, Well done good and 
faithful servant, etc.' 1 

The Apostles preached Christ in his Nature, in 
his supreme and eternal Divinity, in his humilia- 
tion, in his incarnation, suffering and death; in 
his offices as Prophet, Priest and King. They 
preached Christ because they loved him; because 
they loved mankind, and because they knew their 
preaching would be the salvation of the world. 

CONCLUSION. 

Christ eminently qualifies his ministers for 
their work. The Gospel produces joy when it is 
received into good and honest hearts. 



H M- 79 



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